Replacing Old Gas Fire with Electric?

Adamc

Hi all 

We've got an old gas fire which has been serviced and deemed okay but we are thinking of replacing it. I've had little experience with this so thought I'd ask for advice before pricing up. 

We are considering getting an electric and had two questions:

1. Are electric fires good value for money and how can I spot a good and economical performer?

2. Should we have the area behind the fire bricked over or covered after the engineer has capped the gas?

If, in your opinion, getting an electric is a waste of time - can you suggest an alternative please.

Owain_Moneysaver

All electric fires cost the same to run, and may be 3 times the cost of an efficient gas fire. Of course your old gas fire might only be 25% efficient (maybe even less if it's a decorative flame effect style). 
If there is a live capped gas pipe in the builder's opening in the wall it must be ventilated and might have to remain accessible. Otherwise the opening should be bricked or blocked off with a vent to prevent condensation, mould and rot in an unventilated flue.

cranford

I have a glass fronted balanced flue gas fire which is 90% efficient and I believe the modern open gas fires are at least 75% efficient. My gas fire will go up to 5 Kwatts per hour where as most electric fire will have a max of 3 Kwatts. A 2 Kwatt electric fire will cost you at least 25p an hour to run which is £1 for four hour so £7 for four hours a day for a week,. My gas fire costs me less at 90% efficiency than 5p an hour to run at 2 kwatt output, ie 20p a day and £1.40  a week. So over a 26 week heating year it would cost £36 were as the electric one would cost  £182 to run.
I tend to use the gas fire for the flame effect and when the weather is not too cold instead of using the central heating.
So work out how many hours a year you would be using the fire before buying.

FreeBear

Owain_Moneysaver said: If there is a live capped gas pipe in the builder's opening in the wall it must be ventilated and might have to remain accessible. Otherwise the opening should be bricked or blocked off with a vent to prevent condensation, mould and rot in an unventilated flue.

Assuming a conventional fireplace & chimney - The external pot should be capped to prevent rain, birds, and debris from falling in. With a small vent at the bottom, damp shouldn't be a problem, and if a future owner wishes to fit a log burner, the cap is easily removable.