Help with plants for border

Lennys_Shinpad

Hi, I want to use the lockdown as an opportunity to get on top of the garden. One thing that really needs doing is sorting out one of the beds I have (photo below). I have tried and failed with this before and could really do with some good advice on what to plant so I can do it properly.
The garden runs is north-facing and the border gets the sun from sunrise until about noon, when it sets over the garage. The soil is clay and we can suffer from a bit of water-logging at times (irrigation is a separate project).
What I am after is some ideas of plants and arrangements that look ok with limited maintenance. I am not too bothered about things being pretty-pretty but a bit of colour would be nice (year round if possible). I don't mind planting bedding flowers every year but nothing too onerous.
Also, as it is the money-saving-expert website, cheaper plants are definitely preferable.
I have thought about trailing something up the walls but not sure what. Also, I am guessing that some evergreens/shrubs would work ok but I am a novice gardener and my previous attempts at just whacking random plants in and hoping for the best have all failed.
Thanks,
James.
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-taff

I'm not going to suggest specific plants beyond evergreens, like holly to keep it looking green and probably water loving plants, like hostas. If you do a google search for shade loving, and plants that like a lot of water I expect you'll find quite a few there.

I'm very much of the stick it in and see if it likes it and if it doesn't, move it.

I have been quite surprised with quite a few of the plants that like and don't like my soil which is also clay. Contrary to popular wisdom, the rosemarys love the front garden which is clay, and damp most of the time.

[Deleted User]

How long is that section and how deep ?

From here it looks about half a metre in depth, is that about right; and about 2 metres long ?

If it is then you're going to need to be mindful of what you buy; when spending hard earned money on plants do be guided by the labels that are attached to the plant; you need to study the width/spread of it aswell as the height.

If you buy something that's too deep for that border it will result in a deformed growth pattern and then the shape and the aesthetics will just look 'off'.

When you read the width of the plant you'll need to be aware of the planting distance, between each item, or again, you'll end up with a deformed, strange looking plant that never really looks good;  planting distance is roughly 30-60cm apart and the greater the overall growth the larger the distance.

There are many good, cheap, informative, books available on these subjects, all you need is 10 minutes on amazon and you're there; a few pounds spent now can save you money in the long run !

suejb2

I have a similar situation and have looked at Monarda. Only a suggestion I am no expert. 

[Deleted User]

Monarda, although gorgeous, will die back in the winter leaving a bare gap because it's a perennial.

I had presumed the OP had been talking about something that would have a presence there year round so had answered with small shrubs in mind, am I right OP ??

suejb2, if you like the look of perennials consider Helichrysum or Santolina, both have a year round presence with silvery coloured foliage and yellow flowers, grow about 42cm high, prune back a bit in early spring or you'll have a leggy and lax looking plant instead of the tidy bush it should be.
Dwarf Lavender too but prune back in spring or the above will happen.

Alternatively, for shrubs with year round interest and evergreen property, look at the Cistus group, in my opinion they are great value for money and in a hot and dry site they're perfect.
Phlomis and Senecio also, Carex, Stipa and Pennisetum (grasses); there are loads of lovely things.
I have suggested things that have a fairly compact habit because otherwise you'll be forever pruning it back to the constraints of the width/depth of that area.

If you think a climber in that border would look good, nailing a framework to the side of the shed for it to cling to, do remember - Lonicera (honeysuckle) will require a sturdy openweave frame to scramble against but you will need to tie it to it because it doesn't cling.

A Clematis will require a finer weave because it clings by tiny, fine, tendrils and nailing a wire trellis for it to climb on means the tendrils aren't long or strong enough to do that nicely.
Clematis is a vine; its roots requires deep ground, it must have at least 30cm of soil depth for those roots to grow down into properly.
Being a vine it requires copious watering, not just a watering can full each day; that site will be hot and dry and Clems require damp and shadey roots whilst there stems require sun.


Infront of the climber you'll be tempted to plant annuals; don't do this if you put a Clem there because the root disturbance to it will interfere with them and Clems hate root disturbance.
 

There endeth todays lesson