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MIRA Sport Max Electric shower now only cold :(

sysadmin
Posts: 205 Forumite


So our MIRA Sport Max electric shower is now only providing us with cold water and its only 3 years old.
Over the past week it would run fine and then go cold for about 10 seconds and then heat up again and be fine. Now however its just cold all the time.
I've tried messing with the temperature and all the various buttons no no use. The water pressure seems good and consistent with how its always been. I've removed the hose and just has the water coming directly out the bottom of the shower but its still the same.
So i'm guessing its something inside the shower itself. I'm more than willing to safely open it up and replace a part BUT does anyone know which part is the likely culprit?
I dont want to buy one part to then have to buy another etc etc to then only have to go out and get the whole shower replaced anyway..
Thank you
Over the past week it would run fine and then go cold for about 10 seconds and then heat up again and be fine. Now however its just cold all the time.
I've tried messing with the temperature and all the various buttons no no use. The water pressure seems good and consistent with how its always been. I've removed the hose and just has the water coming directly out the bottom of the shower but its still the same.
So i'm guessing its something inside the shower itself. I'm more than willing to safely open it up and replace a part BUT does anyone know which part is the likely culprit?
I dont want to buy one part to then have to buy another etc etc to then only have to go out and get the whole shower replaced anyway..
Thank you
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Comments
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My son recently had the same problem after 15 months and had the local plumber out who advised us to stay away from Mira Sport because they are prone to this so he had it replaced , apologies but I don’t know with what brand he replaced it with.At the time he researched the problem and found out a lot of people had similar issues, there are only two of them as well so it was not over used like it could have been with a large family0
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There are two heating elements in this shower (like most others). I think it's unlikely, that both failed at the same time.What exactly Mira Sport is this? Some are buttons-operated. In this case I'd suspect the electric relay that controls the heating elements.Edit: I see, it's MIRA Sport Max - and it is buttons-operated.However, I don't see any relay - https://www.showerdoc.com/mira-sport-max-shower-spares. Possibly it's some sort of solid state relay on the PCB. I guess PCB is the weakest link here. Also the thermal switch (Therm Switch) is worth checking.
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grumbler said:There are two heating elements in this shower (like most others). I think it's unlikely, that both failed at the same time.What exactly Mira Sport is this? Some are buttons-operated. In this case I'd suspect the electric relay that controls the heating elements.Edit: I see, it's MIRA Sport Max - and it is buttons-operated.However, I don't see any relay - https://www.showerdoc.com/mira-sport-max-shower-spares. Possibly it's some sort of solid state relay on the PCB. I guess PCB is the weakest link here. Also the thermal switch (Therm Switch) is worth checking.
its this one btw: https://www.showerdoc.com/mira-sport-max-10-8kw-electric-shower-white-chrome-1-1746-0080 -
sysadmin said:grumbler said:There are two heating elements in this shower (like most others). I think it's unlikely, that both failed at the same time.What exactly Mira Sport is this? Some are buttons-operated. In this case I'd suspect the electric relay that controls the heating elements.Edit: I see, it's MIRA Sport Max - and it is buttons-operated.However, I don't see any relay - https://www.showerdoc.com/mira-sport-max-shower-spares. Possibly it's some sort of solid state relay on the PCB. I guess PCB is the weakest link here. Also the thermal switch (Therm Switch) is worth checking.The easiest way is with a multimeter. Normally the switch has to be closed (have zero resistance) for the heating elements to work. Have the shower switched off and just in case disconnect one contact from the switch when checking.ETA: with a multimeter you can check the heating elements as well. They must have reasonably small resistance. I'd expect less than 10 Ohm each.BTW, in your link one of the FAQ is Water goes coldLike I said, PCB is the most likely culprit
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