Putting up plasterboard 'horizontally'?

andre_xs

We want to make the shed in the garden a bit nicer and would like to put up plasterboard inside it. However, the woodwork of the shed is not standard size (60cm apart). I have 240x120cm plaster boards. I think it would be easier (less cuttings/left overs) when I put them up horizontally, i.e. 240 from left to right and 120 from bottom to top. Aside from having a horizontal joint, are there any other things why this might be a bad idea?

Grenage

Not particularly, but I'd be pretty wary of putting plasterboard in a shed unless you can control the humidity.

FreeBear

Put some insulation between the uprights - Celotex/Kingspan type foam boards are the best, polystyrene not quite as good..

Plasterboard is strongest along the taped edges, and one normally fixes it so that the cut ends are fully supported. So in a shed with vertical studs, fix the sheets horizontally. Use plasterboard screws at 200mm centres, not nails, and for extra strength, you can use grab adhesive - If you put rigid insulation in, a generous spread of adhesive on the plasterboard & insulation boards will stiffen things up considerably.

In an outside shed, I'd be more inclined to use plywood rather than plasterboard. Sheds get damp, which is the one thing that plasterboard doesn't like. Although, if this shed is going to be a heated, well insulated workshop/studio, then plasterboard will be fine.

andre_xs

Yes, it will be insulated: (from outside to inside) shed's wood panels, damp proof membrane, polystyrene boards (insulation values good, cheap), the possibly another layer of some foil (not decided yet), then the plasterboard. Shed will be heated parts of the year, and a (proper big) dehumidifier is planned to be in there as well...
@FreeBear: What exactly did you mean by "Use screws at 200mm centres". Do you mean one screw every 20cm?

Best wishes,

Andre

Grenage

Aye, 200mm centres basically means a screw every 200mm.

theonlywayisup

andre_xs said:

Yes, it will be insulated: (from outside to inside) shed's wood panels, damp proof membrane, polystyrene boards (insulation values good, cheap), the possibly another layer of some foil (not decided yet), then the plasterboard. Shed will be heated parts of the year, and a (proper big) dehumidifier is planned to be in there as well...
@FreeBear: What exactly did you mean by "Use screws at 200mm centres". Do you mean one screw every 20cm?

Best wishes,

Andre

If you want your shed to be effectively insulated you should replace the DPM with a good breather membrane and have a cavity to allow airflow.  

My shed is - cladding - battens and counter battens (airflow cavity) - TF200 thermo membrane - timber frame with insulation within panel - Actis vapour control barrier - service void - plaster & skim.