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Help How does my Hot Water Work?

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desi1_2
desi1_2 Posts: 3 Newbie
Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
Hey,

I've just purchased a "new build"4 bedroom  house and need some help. specifically around Hot Water...I am really confused...I've done a lot of hours of googling as I didn't get any manuals with the house.  I've not yet moved in but sometimes when I have been at the property the water is Hot other times it just warm...
I have a logic Heat H18 in the kitchen and a water storage unit ( I think ) in a cupboard on the landing...and 2 thermostats one in the entrance hall and one in the main bedroom. The downstairs thermostat has an option saying "Hot water Boost"
There is a switch inside the cupboard saying "Water Heater"

1) Do i need to turn this on to get hot water? (I did a quick google and I am being told this is an immersion heater switch and will cost me an arm and leg to run...I am being told I should only turn this on when my boiler fails...(the previous owner had this switch off when I bought the house)
2) Does it matter if I have the switch on or off? I've turned it off right now...it has been on for the last several days...
3) I noticed a pressure gauge and it had 2 arrows a red one which I believe is where the pressure should be and a black one of the current pressure...it's currently at 0.5 bar when it should be at 1.5 Bar...if I increase this will I get better hot water flow?
*Update just found these instructions to re-pressurize the system*

Repressurising your hot water cylinder is quite simple. Here’s how:

  1. Turn off your boiler.
  2. Find the red expansion chamber at eye level, attached to the wall near the cylinder.
  3. Find the chrome valves with black taps below the chamber. Turn the taps at 90 degrees across the pipes. If the braided flexible pipe (filling loop) is attached to both valves, go to point six.
  4. Remove the two chrome ‘blanks’ on the valve outlets, turn anti-clockwise to loosen.
  5. Find the filling loop attached to, or next to, one or both valve ends. Attach it to both valve ends by turning the end connectors clockwise until they are tight.
  6. Turn the black valve closest to the pressure gauge so it’s in line with the pipe.
  7. Turn the black handle on the other end through 90 degrees, constantly checking the needle on the pressure gauge, as you’re now repressurising your system. When it’s between 1.0 and 2.0 bars (1.5 is ideal), turn the valve handle back to its original position.
  8. Repeat with the right-hand valve.
  9. Turn the boiler back on. Remove the filling loop and replace the caps.
***Update 2*** just also found this!
if you have a boiler and an airing cupboard containing a hot water cylinder that looks a bit like the one to the left, then you have a conventional boiler.

This type of boiler heats water and stores it in the cylinder in your airing cupboard, ready for when you need it.

This means that it is possible to run out of hot water (for instance if the shower is being used a lot). It also means that you have an immersion heater. This is an electric heater built into the cylinder that can give you a boost of hot water if you run out, or if your boiler is not working. This should only be used as a back-up system and run for short periods.

Guess I have my answers! But if anyone wants to provide any more advice I'd appreciate it!

ogic


Comments

  • neilmcl
    neilmcl Posts: 19,460 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Do you have a timer anywhere for the hot water, check the boiler and thermostats. The Switch inside the airing cupboard is for the immersion heater but you should also get hot water from the boiler itself indirectly.
  • southcoastrgi
    southcoastrgi Posts: 6,298 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    It's the thermostat/time clocks we need to see 
    I'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.

    You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.
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