Selecting correct coil pack

red_eye

EdGasketTheSecond said:

You should put a little anti-sieze, or copper grease on the threads; not oil. That will stop them seizing into the cylinder head. Then do them up by feel; not torque wrench as the torque specifications are always for clean dry and new threads. If the plugs have a washer, they are easy as you can feel the washer compress and then no more; at that point they are tight enough. Plugs without a washer need very little torque so be careful.

Shouldn’t need to apply anything to the threads unless op is planning on using the plugs until the electrodes are completely worn or has a ford with a duratec lump

JustAnotherSaver

JustAnotherSaver said:

ive been told yes but I’ve read online no.

red_eye said:

No need, no point, don’t bother.

EdGasketTheSecond said:

You should put a little anti-sieze, or copper grease on the threads;

And just like that, point proven. LoL.

Not sure if we have any anti-sieze anything but i have some copper grease.

And they have a metal washer, yes.

Honestly though, anything by feel is a bad idea. Been there and broken too many things before. I never think it's tight enough. Then i end up breaking something.

Jackmydad

JustAnotherSaver said:

And then you've got to know what you're doing with said multimeter

There are loads of tutorials online, and it doesn't take long to get a basic understanding of electricity, so that you can understand what you're doing.
Having one and knowing how to use it can save you a lot of money and trouble. 

oldagetraveller1

From Denso - https://www.denso-am.eu/products/automotive-aftermarket/ignition/spark-plugs/installation/

Robbo66

EdGasketTheSecond said:

A failing crank sensor can cause starting problems but be fine otherwise. That is because when starting the metal fins that 'fly' past it are only rotating slowly so you don't get much of a signal. Hence check it with the meter; if in range it isn't that; if outside then it is almost certainly the crank sensor. Had exactly same thing on a Hyundai; it ran fine but wouldn't start without a lot of difficulty.

Not always, I had a crank sensor issue on one of my vehicles, would start ok and even idle but as soon as engine warmed up and you tried to drive it would get 1/2 a mile down the road and engine would cut out and then wouldn't start till it had cooled down. 

EdGasketTheSecond

I've had that scenario too but it wasn't the same as what the OP described; he said it was starting that was a problem.

JustAnotherSaver

Yeah once it’s started then there’s no issue. It doesn’t cough and splutter once it’s actually started, it’s like there’s no issue. 

It does often start no problem also so its not like every time. 

It just has trouble starting at times with no consistencies. I can’t say every time it rains it has trouble or every time it’s been on a short journey it has trouble. There’s no consistency to it. It just has trouble when it decides to. 

JustAnotherSaver

JustAnotherSaver said:

Yeah once it’s started then there’s no issue. It doesn’t cough and splutter once it’s actually started, it’s like there’s no issue. 

Change that.

Took the car to work myself during last week. Was behind a dawdler so put it in 3rd to get a bit of pull, was accelerating fine and then cough-cough-cough. After that it was fine again.

EdGasketTheSecond

So have you checked the crank sensor like I suggested?