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At which point would you sell your car?
Comments
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Thanks all.
I think I'd like a new car but then I've test driven the new Golf GTI and hate it. It has nice features though like virtual dashboard, radar cruise control and stuff/Ebe_Scrooge wrote: »It depends to a large extent on how you look at it.
No major faults. I've always tried to pre-empt them and do something about it at each service.Ebe_Scrooge wrote: »You should have a pretty good idea of whether your existing car has any major faults
Price for clutch includes new dual mass flywheel and 4 hours labour.Ebe_Scrooge wrote: »Are your figures correct ?
Edition 30 or "anniversary edition" - more powerful engine and supposedly "limited numbers". Price was off cars locally either same age or older and similar milage.Ebe_Scrooge wrote: »I'd also question whether the value you've put on the car is correct - again, it sounds a bit high, but I may be wrong.foxy-stoat wrote: »I would keep it until it starts burning oil. Yes, I'm tempted to do this.
Off-piste, but I was going to buy the 1.8T Golf GTI until I fell in love with the MK5.parking_question_chap wrote: »I had a MK4 GTI
Mechanic states there's a bit of play in the steering rack so will need doing at some point. Clutch is from my own experience - gap between biting point and fully engaged seems to be very narrow now.parking_question_chap wrote: »Has anybody told you it needs those expensive jobs doing soon? Or are they saying they might need doing?
Mainly use it for commute to and from work, and to and from clients. So need it. Hence why I spent money on getting the cam chain and tensioner replaced. They're not meant to be serviceable items but they can fail at 100k.parking_question_chap wrote: »The important question is how badly do you need a car? Could you make do with cycling or taxis for a few weeks if it suddenly went pop?
Cost is based off clutch + DMF + labour, and steering rack + programming.I would have thought both those jobs could be done for an awful lot less. Certainly half that for the clutch. Not sure about the rack but it sounds expensive.
I'd do the work - perhaps staggering it - and keep the car.
It's not but there's play in the steering rack and knocking. A known issue on these cars.Nobbie1967 wrote: »What makes you think it will need a new steering rack? These aren't usually service items on any car I've had.
Yup and part of the reason why I'm so reluctant to sell it.Nobbie1967 wrote: »Sounds like you've really looked after it well
The nearest one to you on autotrader is Edinburgh - £13000 for 45k mile car.Maybe it's where you are in the UK, but where I live (Scotland) it's not a £5-£6K car....although what it's "worth" is immaterial should you decide to keep.
I think that's the issue. Car itself is in good nick. Bodywork pretty good. Alloys need a refurb.Depends whether it is scabby or you fancy a change.0 -
Personally i'd do nothing with it and keep driving.
Clutches generally fail slowly and start slipping in higher gears under acceleration long before they prevent drive, so keep an eye on it and then get that changed when needed. Last (genuine OEM - LUK) clutch & flywheel I bought for a Volvo was around £700 for the pair and I fitted myself, but even if paying a local garage around £60/hour would still only cost you £240 in labour. The Golf will probably also use a LUK clutch, available from GSF / ECP easily enough.
Steering rack, again leave it until it gets far worse.
You have already suffered the majority of the depreciation on that car, you're now into the golden years where the depreciation curve is almost flat, milk them for as long as you can!0 -
I would keep it, I'm in a similar position albeit a Volvo V70 of same vintage........seems a no brainier as depreciation is now minimal. Engine gearbox are all great etc.0
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I normally keep cars going til I scrap them, all the VW's I e had, in nearly 20 years of driving, have cost me under £650 VWs; except when I pushed the boat out and spent under £1200 on one, which I sold on and is still going strong.Mortgage started 2020, aiming to clear 31/12/2029.0
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My car isn't quite as old at 2011 and I'm planning on keeping it until my needs change or it becomes unreliable. It's had a few pricier repairs this year but they're just due to its age and not much money compared to the depreciation a newer car would suffer.0
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V70's are great. My Previous 2004 D5 I sold on to a mate* at 273k miles, having only had a clutch around 260k miles, and it's still going strong with him on over 280k now. I'd had it 11 years and for most of those miles, and it rarely gave problems.lexington013 wrote: »I would keep it, I'm in a similar position albeit a Volvo V70 of same vintage........seems a no brainier as depreciation is now minimal. Engine gearbox are all great etc.
* because I was offered a V70R from another mate cheap enough
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Is replacing the flywheel an absolute necessity when changing the clutch?
My last car had a slipping clutch for about two years. I kept putting off replacing and just put up with having to be easy on the accelerator pedal. However, after I replaced the clutch, the car felt like a new car and regretted not getting it changed when it first started to slip.0 -
Mistral001 wrote: »Is replacing the flywheel an absolute necessity when changing the clutch?
Only if it has a Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) as they wear and get rattly, and it's the same amount of work as changing the clutch to change it later, so crazy not to do it at the same time.0
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