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At which point would you sell your car?

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  • Thanks all.
    It depends to a large extent on how you look at it.
    I think I'd like a new car but then I've test driven the new Golf GTI and hate it. It has nice features though like virtual dashboard, radar cruise control and stuff/
    You should have a pretty good idea of whether your existing car has any major faults
    No major faults. I've always tried to pre-empt them and do something about it at each service.
    Are your figures correct ?
    Price for clutch includes new dual mass flywheel and 4 hours labour.
    I'd also question whether the value you've put on the car is correct - again, it sounds a bit high, but I may be wrong.
    Edition 30 or "anniversary edition" - more powerful engine and supposedly "limited numbers". Price was off cars locally either same age or older and similar milage.
    foxy-stoat wrote: »
    I would keep it until it starts burning oil. Yes, I'm tempted to do this.
    I had a MK4 GTI
    Off-piste, but I was going to buy the 1.8T Golf GTI until I fell in love with the MK5.
    Has anybody told you it needs those expensive jobs doing soon? Or are they saying they might need doing?
    Mechanic states there's a bit of play in the steering rack so will need doing at some point. Clutch is from my own experience - gap between biting point and fully engaged seems to be very narrow now.
    The important question is how badly do you need a car? Could you make do with cycling or taxis for a few weeks if it suddenly went pop?
    Mainly use it for commute to and from work, and to and from clients. So need it. Hence why I spent money on getting the cam chain and tensioner replaced. They're not meant to be serviceable items but they can fail at 100k.
    motorguy wrote: »
    I would have thought both those jobs could be done for an awful lot less. Certainly half that for the clutch. Not sure about the rack but it sounds expensive.

    I'd do the work - perhaps staggering it - and keep the car.
    Cost is based off clutch + DMF + labour, and steering rack + programming.
    Nobbie1967 wrote: »
    What makes you think it will need a new steering rack? These aren't usually service items on any car I've had.
    It's not but there's play in the steering rack and knocking. A known issue on these cars.
    Nobbie1967 wrote: »
    Sounds like you've really looked after it well
    Yup and part of the reason why I'm so reluctant to sell it.
    mollycat wrote: »
    Maybe it's where you are in the UK, but where I live (Scotland) it's not a £5-£6K car....although what it's "worth" is immaterial should you decide to keep.
    The nearest one to you on autotrader is Edinburgh - £13000 for 45k mile car.
    caprikid1 wrote: »
    Depends whether it is scabby or you fancy a change.
    I think that's the issue. Car itself is in good nick. Bodywork pretty good. Alloys need a refurb.
  • alan_d
    alan_d Posts: 364 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 100 Posts Mortgage-free Glee!
    Personally i'd do nothing with it and keep driving.
    Clutches generally fail slowly and start slipping in higher gears under acceleration long before they prevent drive, so keep an eye on it and then get that changed when needed. Last (genuine OEM - LUK) clutch & flywheel I bought for a Volvo was around £700 for the pair and I fitted myself, but even if paying a local garage around £60/hour would still only cost you £240 in labour. The Golf will probably also use a LUK clutch, available from GSF / ECP easily enough.
    Steering rack, again leave it until it gets far worse.
    You have already suffered the majority of the depreciation on that car, you're now into the golden years where the depreciation curve is almost flat, milk them for as long as you can!
  • I would keep it, I'm in a similar position albeit a Volvo V70 of same vintage........seems a no brainier as depreciation is now minimal. Engine gearbox are all great etc.
  • I normally keep cars going til I scrap them, all the VW's I e had, in nearly 20 years of driving, have cost me under £650 VWs; except when I pushed the boat out and spent under £1200 on one, which I sold on and is still going strong.
    Mortgage started 2020, aiming to clear 31/12/2029.
  • Johnmcl7
    Johnmcl7 Posts: 2,838 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    My car isn't quite as old at 2011 and I'm planning on keeping it until my needs change or it becomes unreliable. It's had a few pricier repairs this year but they're just due to its age and not much money compared to the depreciation a newer car would suffer.
  • alan_d
    alan_d Posts: 364 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 100 Posts Mortgage-free Glee!
    I would keep it, I'm in a similar position albeit a Volvo V70 of same vintage........seems a no brainier as depreciation is now minimal. Engine gearbox are all great etc.
    V70's are great. My Previous 2004 D5 I sold on to a mate* at 273k miles, having only had a clutch around 260k miles, and it's still going strong with him on over 280k now. I'd had it 11 years and for most of those miles, and it rarely gave problems.

    * because I was offered a V70R from another mate cheap enough ;)
  • Mistral001
    Mistral001 Posts: 5,428 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper I've been Money Tipped!
    Is replacing the flywheel an absolute necessity when changing the clutch?

    My last car had a slipping clutch for about two years. I kept putting off replacing and just put up with having to be easy on the accelerator pedal. However, after I replaced the clutch, the car felt like a new car and regretted not getting it changed when it first started to slip.
  • alan_d
    alan_d Posts: 364 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 100 Posts Mortgage-free Glee!
    Mistral001 wrote: »
    Is replacing the flywheel an absolute necessity when changing the clutch?

    Only if it has a Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF) as they wear and get rattly, and it's the same amount of work as changing the clutch to change it later, so crazy not to do it at the same time.
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