No Central Heating with young children

fezster

ianto11 wrote: »

locking the manual override lever open will close the circuit through the switch head and allow the boiler to light

Not on a honeywell valve it won't.

It's used only for draining down and filling up.

If the boiler is firing for some other reason (eg. another zone valve has activated it), opening the valve manually will allow flow through that zone.

ianto11

I have Honeywell zone valves one for DHW, one for heating, so you're telling me I need to have the DHW firing the boiler for the CH manual override to work.....don't think so heating controller signals the valve open, which tells the boiler to fire...( on my system anyway

fezster

ianto11 wrote: »

so you're telling me I need to have the DHW firing the boiler for the CH manual override to work

If the CH valve is faulty, then yes. Manually opening the CH valve will not activate the microswitch to fire the boiler on a honeywell valve.

Google it if you don't believe me.

ianto11

http://www.freeheatingadvice.com/articles/honeywell-motorised-valve-faults/

"When the programmer and stat send a Live feed to the 2-port motorised brown wire, the motor drives the valve open to allow water to pass. When the valve is fully open, the end switch closes, allowing electrical current to pass from the grey wire to the orange wire and from there to the boiler Switched Live. Unless the boiler thermostat is already up to temperature, the boiler will now fire."

If the synchron motor has failed, manual override just opens the valve and completes the circuit like the synchron motor should do in the above situation

ianto11

And as per wiring drawing here

fezster

ianto11 wrote: »

If the synchron motor has failed, manual override just opens the valve and completes the circuit like the synchron motor should do in the above situation

No, it doesn't.

Do you have a honeywell 2 port valve? If so, open it manually and tell me if your boiler fires. It won't. I can't be bothered to keep repeating the same thing to you.

ianto11

I do have a system with 2 off 2 port valves and if I send a signal from the CH controller and the 2 port valve fails to open, manually locking it will fire the boiler as the supply goes through the switch head to to the switched live on the boiler as per my 2 previous posts....but let's just agree to differ

fezster

Crucially - Is yours a honeywell, though? OP's valve is a honeywell.

EDIT:

ianto11 wrote: »

I have Honeywell zone valves one for DHW, one for heating,

In which case, you are not performing the test correctly.
END EDIT.

I'm at home now so have taken the liberty to google confirmation of what I've said:

https://community.screwfix.com/threads/honeywell-2-port-valve-replace-head-or-motor.177077/

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/honeywell-motorised-valve-manual-override-switch.479187/

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/honeywell-v4073a1039-motorised-3-port-valve-should-moving-lever-to-manual-allow-flow.491919/#post-4024736

https://talk.electricianforum.co.uk/topic/21982-s-plan-2-zones-need-advice-please/

ianto11

They are Honeywell, and it seems from the links you sent I shouldn't be able to do what I could

I was speaking form my personal experience. I had a failed synchron motor last year, and I could get the boiler to fire with the manual lever and no other demand.
Now maybe someone had dicked about with the micro switch to allow this to happen ...I haven't had any need to test the new one. Apologies

fezster

No worries at all.

A long time ago I wanted an answer to this precise question and struggled to find it (mainly because people would post about non-honeywell valves and assume honeywell ones behaved the same). So I wanted to ensure whoever comes across this thread gets the right info from it.

I did not mean to come across as condascending.