Drill hole fill advice

sharhar

Hi,

I would like some advise on the drill holes.I'm a novice in DIY.

A plumber came in to install a water softener. I was given an option to install it inside or outside the house. I chose to install it outside so it won't block the storage space inside.

He drilled two holes to get the water outside and then softened water inside of the house. The holes are pretty badly finished on both sides . I want to cover the holes completely so draught doesn't seep through.

I don't want to completely seal them as we should be able to remove the pipes when we move out.

Any advise on what I should be doing.

Ebe_Scrooge

I'd be getting the plumber back to finish the job properly !

But that aside, a can of that expanding foam stuff is probably the simplest option - squirt it in and trim it flush once it's set.

Why would you want to remove the pipes when you move out ? Sounds like more hassle than it's worth.

FreeBear

sharhar wrote: »

A plumber came in to install a water softener. I was given an option to install it inside or outside the house. I chose to install it outside so it won't block the storage space inside.

When the winter comes and you get a hard frost, the water softener is going to freeze. Depending on the severity of any frosts, the unit could fall to pieces - It needs to be installed in a frost free location (like inside a cupboard under the sink).

In the meantime, a small squirt, and I do mean a small squirt, of expanding foam will seal the holes. Won't look particularly pretty, but you will be able to remove the pipes when you come to relocate the unit.

sharhar

Ebe_Scrooge wrote: »

I'd be getting the plumber back to finish the job properly !

Why would you want to remove the pipes when you move out ? Sounds like more hassle than it's worth.

Hi, I haven't been able to get hold of the plumber. I will see if I can get the softener company to send him again.

I would like to get the softener out along with the pipes when I move out of the house

sharhar

FreeBear wrote: »

When the winter comes and you get a hard frost, the water softener is going to freeze. Depending on the severity of any frosts, the unit could fall to pieces - It needs to be installed in a frost free location (like inside a cupboard under the sink).

In the meantime, a small squirt, and I do mean a small squirt, of expanding foam will seal the holes. Won't look particularly pretty, but you will be able to remove the pipes when you come to relocate the unit.

Hi, I did ask about water freezing, they mentioned they use some special pipes and he has also covered the unit with the small cabinet sort of thing similar to this - thewatersoftenercentre.com [slash] images [slash] outside7.jpg

I will use foam squirt and see how it works. I assume I will be able to cut all the foam later when I want to relocate the unit.

Thanks for the advise

Belenus

FreeBear wrote: »

When the winter comes and you get a hard frost, the water softener is going to freeze. Depending on the severity of any frosts, the unit could fall to pieces - It needs to be installed in a frost free location (like inside a cupboard under the sink)....

I had a twin tank or cylinder Kinetico water softener in an outside insulated box for over 20 years with no problems.

Perhaps the high salt level in the brine lowers the freezing point of the water in the brine tank.

Presumably the cold never penetrated as far as the softening cylinders.

Belenus

sharhar wrote: »

..I would like to get the softener out along with the pipes when I move out of the house

You can remove the softener and leave the pipes in place. The pipes themselves will have little or no value.

Is there a bypass valve fitted internally?

There should be three valves and all should be internal.

1) the incoming mains water supply and 2) the household feed side of softened water and 3) one valve to bypass the softener.

Closing the first two valves and opening the bypass valve allows the softener to be removed.

All you then need to do is cap off the redundant pipes.

sharhar

Belenus wrote: »

You can remove the softener and leave the pipes in place. The pipes themselves will have little or no value.

Is there a bypass valve fitted internally?

There should be three valves and all should be internal.

1) the incoming mains water supply and 2) the household feed side of softened water and 3) one valve to bypass the softener.

Closing the first two valves and opening the bypass valve allows the softener to be removed.

All you then need to do is cap off the redundant pipes.

Thanks for the advise. So did you have any sort of foam filling or was yours a perefect drill hole?

jk0

If you pare back the foam a few mm when it's dry, you can fill the hole with polyfilla, then paint, to make a better job.

sharhar

jk0 wrote: »

If you pare back the foam a few mm when it's dry, you can fill the hole with polyfilla, then paint, to make a better job.

Thanks. Have never used polyfilla before. Would that come off or break easily if I ever want to get the pipes out or should i just leave them capped as Belenus said when I move house?

GDB2222

If all you want to do is stop draughts, a bit of newspaper stuffed into the hole will work.

For a neat finish, this stuff is easier to use than expanding foam:
https://www.toolstation.com/one-strike-ready-mixed-filler/p20822

It won't sag like ordinary filler. Once it is dry, you can paint it.

Unlike Polyfilla, it won't set rock hard, so you have a chance of getting the pipes out, should you wish to.