Shower spec difference-other than price?

justaquestion

Hi folks,

Have to get a new shower and having a look at screwfix.

I have a shower pod, water inlet needs to be on right bottom side of shower, hose connection on left.

I am totally confused here as the spec on these compared showers seem quite similar, only difference is price.

Would appreciate some advice if all and all they are more or less the same?

Current shower is a pumped but have been advised to go for one without a pump as water pressure is ok, and shower will be quieter without pump noise.

can go up to to 9.5 kilowatts. Screwfix have a lot of showers but as I say im lost here, probably want to spend £100-£200.


https://www.screwfix.com/p/mira-sprint-multi-fit-white-8-5kw-electric-shower/977fr


https://www.screwfix.com/p/triton-t80-easi-fit-white-chrome-8-5kw-thermostatic-electric-shower/8178v


https://www.screwfix.com/p/triton-enrich-white-9-5kw-manual-electric-shower/74867

https://www.screwfix.com/p/triton-t80-easi-fit-white-chrome-9-5kw-thermostatic-electric-shower/8618v



Thanks a lot.

FreeBear

justaquestion wrote: »

Would appreciate some advice if all and all they are more or less the same?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/triton-t80-easi-fit-white-chrome-8-5kw-thermostatic-electric-shower/8178v

Not all showers are the same. Had a Berry Magicoal shower, and everyone complained that it was either too hot or too cold. Replaced it with the above T80 and we are all loving it. Once the temperature is set, it remains constant from one shower to the next.

It isn't a particularly cheap shower unit, but I would certainly go for another one if the need arose. No hesitation in recommending it either as long as your mains water pressure is OK.

justaquestion

Thanks for reply, What does Thermostatic do, with old shower, when switched on it takes some adjusting on the dial to get from hot to right temperature and if switched off for a second while using, the water is very hot for a while when switched on again.

Does Thermostatic mean that there is more of a balance in water temperature?

Many thanks once again for any advice.

neilmcl

Is a thermostatic control really that necessary on an electric shower?

FreeBear

justaquestion wrote: »

What does Thermostatic do, with old shower, when switched on it takes some adjusting on the dial to get from hot to right temperature and if switched off for a second while using, the water is very hot for a while when switched on again.

Does Thermostatic mean that there is more of a balance in water temperature?

Yes, better regulation (or balance) of water temperature - If you are using the 5-way spray head, the water flow varies depending on what setting the head is on. Without thermostatic control, on the small spray pattern (low flow), the water can get too hot. The thermostatic control removes this problem. Also a big help if your mains water pressure varies (which mine does from time to time).



Whilst not essential to have, if you like a constant temperature, you'll appreciate the thermostatic control. No more fiddling with the control knob to find a setting you like.

coffeehound

justaquestion wrote: »

can go up to to 9.5 kilowatts.

Worth going for 9.5 kW if your wiring is up to supplying the current.

This gives a better flow when the mains water is at its coldest in winter.

justaquestion

coffeehound wrote: »

Worth going for 9.5 kW if your wiring is up to supplying the current.

This gives a better flow when the mains water is at its coldest in winter.

.

Well Electrician did check the main shower cable form house fuse box and says it can take up to 9.5KW.

Did have a word with the plumber who is having a look soon and he has told me that the connecting electrical cables into back of mains shower are a lot thicker than the connecting cables for a pumped shower.

So just wondering even though the electrician has said that electrical cable at fuse box is ok, might it still be possible it will only feed a pumped shower rather than a mains shower?

Thanks once again everyone for the great advice, its very much appreciated.

FreeBear

justaquestion wrote: »

Well Electrician did check the main shower cable form house fuse box and says it can take up to 9.5KW.

If you have 10mm² cable from the consumer unit (fuse board) all the way to the shower, then you could go for a 9.5Kw shower - This is dependent on the total length of the cable and the type of wall it is clipped to or buried in.

The Redring Expression 570 shower that you are replacing came in two versions. An 8.5Kw and a 9.5Kw rating - Both should be wired up with 10mm² cable, but Reding did suggest 6mm² cable was adequate for the 8.5Kw shower if clipped direct, subject to site conditions.

justaquestion

FreeBear wrote: »

If you have 10mm² cable from the consumer unit (fuse board) all the way to the shower, then you could go for a 9.5Kw shower - This is dependent on the total length of the cable and the type of wall it is clipped to or buried in.

The Redring Expression 570 shower that you are replacing came in two versions. An 8.5Kw and a 9.5Kw rating - Both should be wired up with 10mm² cable, but Reding did suggest 6mm² cable was adequate for the 8.5Kw shower if clipped direct, subject to site conditions.

Thanks I have had a look at the cable where it leaves the fuse box and it is a large grey cable approx 20 mm wide by probably 10 mm deep so hopefully it will be ok when the pro's look at it.

coffeehound

justaquestion wrote: »

with old shower, when switched on it takes some adjusting on the dial to get from hot to right temperature and if switched off for a second while using, the water is very hot for a while when switched on again.

That can be a problem with some electric showers -- when you switch off, the water inside gets too hot, which (as well as a scalding hazard) can cause the shower's over-temperature protection to trip. Then when you start the shower again, the cold water has to run for a while before the over-temperature protection cools down enough to allow the heater to switch on again.

The fancy electronic showers solve this by letting the cold water continue to run for a while after you switch off, so that it isn't scalding for the next person, and you don't have to wait around for the over-temperature protection to reset. So the elecronic showers might be worth the extra for this feature if people need to use the shower one after another.
.

justaquestion

coffeehound wrote: »

That can be a problem with some electric showers -- when you switch off, the water inside gets too hot, which (as well as a scalding hazard) can cause the shower's over-temperature protection to trip. Then when you start the shower again, the cold water has to run for a while before the over-temperature protection cools down enough to allow the heater to switch on again.

The fancy electronic showers solve this by letting the cold water continue to run for a while after you switch off, so that it isn't scalding for the next person, and you don't have to wait around for the over-temperature protection to reset. So the elecronic showers might be worth the extra for this feature if people need to use the shower one after another.
.

Thanks old one exactly as you have described, though old in this case is only six years, Redring shower works ok otherwise only the on/off dial is difficult to switch on.

So settled on this one as electric feed cable is 10mm,

https://www.screwfix.com/p/triton-t80-easi-fit-white-chrome-9-5kw-thermostatic-electric-shower/8618v

I take it when you are talking about the above features of the "electronic shower" that the above thermostatic I have linked to, should work this way?

Thanks to all who have helped me out on this, really appreciate it.