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Wiring in gas cooker
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What i was thinking about was replacing the main fuse in the cosumer unit with a lower value fuse (3/5 amp )and then they could use the dedicated outlet normally situated behind the cooker.
Again, you don't get 3A BS 1361 fuses - only BS 1362.
These are NOT interchangeable, nor should a BS 1362 fuse ever be used in a distribution board.0 -
So under my stairs I have a cabinet with various trip switches. Could I change the oven trip switch to a lower amperage trip switch and would this be the same as having the lower amperage fuse in a plug.0
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Thanks everyone for your help so far.
So under my stairs I have a cabinet with various trip switches. Could I change the oven trip switch to a lower amperage trip switch and would this be the same as having the lower amperage fuse in a plug.0 -
No no no....
Rather than messing around changing MCBs in the consumer unit, why not replace the cooker connection point behind the cooker with a 13A unswitched socket and simply plug your cooker into this socket?
The fuse in the plug will protect the cooker flex, and you can use the cooker isolator to switch supplies.
You'll need to check you've got the depth to have the socket and plug behind the cooker, but you can get flat-plate sockets which are flat against the wall to give a little bit more space (assuming back-box can accommodate).0 -
Thanks everyone for your help so far.
So under my stairs I have a cabinet with various trip switches. Could I change the oven trip switch to a lower amperage trip switch and would this be the same as having the lower amperage fuse in a plug.
I wouldn't be doing this unless you're a qualified electrician; changing MCBs in consumer units is not for the amateur DIYer. Continue to use the 13 amp socket for the gas cooker igniter until you can get a certified sparky round to check over the system. I have exactly the same set-up in my house and use a multi-adaptor if I need to run additional electrical appliances. Never presented a problem in the 6+ years I've been in my house.0
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