Buying 2nd Hand Oven. No plug. Okay?

Owain_Moneysaver

markin wrote: »

The Op said It has its own circuit breaker, If its a 16A breaker then the cable should be able to cope with a 16A load, Unless you had a cowboy in who put a 16A breaker on a 2.5mm cable.

2.5mm cable should be ok for 20A.

A 20A radial circuit is a standard circuit configuration.

anotheruser

Yeah, picked it up.
It is a biggie at 3Kw! Current one is just 2.4 or something much lower.
Not sure if this means the new one will be mor efficient while using more electric or what.

Have enlisted the help of an electrician as the plug I currently have is switched on / off using the switch on the wall. I'm hoping someone else picked up the feed from the old dedicated wire and stuck a socket on the end of it so I can just reverse it.

Consumer unit has a B32 (32A?) switch for the cooker.
The consumer unit is only a few months old and the electrician made sure all the cables could handle the power they'd be expected to carry.
For example, I had a 100A fuse on a cable that could only carry 60A (can't remember the exact values) so I'm confident he'd put a decent fuse in for the cooker wire.

markin

Owain_Moneysaver wrote: »

2.5mm cable should be ok for 20A.

A 20A radial circuit is a standard circuit configuration.

I meant a 20A, With an unknown length and possibly insulated so derated at 50% to 16A.


But In my mind it should always be at least 6mm, ready for the day that fancy double oven gets installed.

TELLIT01

When we moved in to our current house there was a dedicated cooker circuit. As the cooker we brought with us was fitted with a 13amp plug we had the cooker switch replaced with a standard double 13 amp outlet. That may well be what has happened to the switch in the OP's house.

Risteard

Regardless of the rating, T&E cable can never be fitted to a plugtop.

Ectophile

Risteard wrote: »

Regardless of the rating, T&E cable can never be fitted to a plugtop.

It can be - I've seen it done. But it shouldn't be.