Nightmare Kitchen install

peter5898

[FONT=&quot]I've recently had a new kitchen install which was done by one of the big companies, [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]When I’ve checked the kitchen I’ve found that there were gaps at the back on the working surfaces which were not filled or sealed, some of the side panels to on the kitchen cupboards have been filled with filler at the bottom. [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]When Curry’s tried to install my dishwasher they advised that the kitchen unit wasn't straight and it couldn't be fitted.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]They haven't left a big enough gap for the fridge so it sometime difficult to open.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]They’ve left the drain pipe for the sink sticking out and its not attached to the wall.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I wanted to ask if anyone knows if [/FONT][FONT=&quot] when you fit a kitchen working surface is it normal practice to leave gaps at the back and not seal them, and the kick back boards at the bottom of the units also have gaps and I not sure if these should have been sealed or filled.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]I've got the Area manager coming out next week to check the kitchen but I wanted to ask if anyone could let me know what my consumer rights are if they won't resolve the oustanding issues.[/FONT][/FONT]

JimmyChanga

There shouldn't be gaps at the back of the worktop unless they were expecting tiling or something else to fill them later.

Are the gaps for the kickboards straight or undulating? Are they where they meet the kitchen units or where they meet the floor?

Is the dishwasher built-in? Then check the sizes with a tape and also use a level to see if it is true or not.

Check space left for fridge with original plans.

Did someone survey your kitchen before quoting for the install?

FreeBear

JimmyChanga wrote: »

There shouldn't be gaps at the back of the worktop unless they were expecting tiling or something else to fill them later.

To get a decent fit without resorting to great globs of sealant, the worktop needs templating and scribing to fit. A decent workman should be able to achieve a gap of no more than 1mm assuming the walls are reasonably flat and smooth.

The alternative is either upstands or tiling. If tiling, don't grout the joint between worktop and tiles - This should be a thin bead of silicone sealant.

JimmyChanga

To get a decent fit without resorting to great globs of sealant, the worktop needs templating and scribing to fit. A decent workman should be able to achieve a gap of no more than 1mm assuming the walls are reasonably flat and smooth.

Yes, but seems no silicone has been used. So assuming install was not meant to be complete fit. No need to scribe if tiles/splashback are to cover that gap up.

Could be the walls and floor are so out of true that it would have needed cutting of the cabinets to make good.

MarcTJTD

It may be worthwhile to ask for a "schedule of works" (or comparable document) for the install.

Assuming the company you purchased from produces them, they may list the details of the installation and give you something to point at and say "they ain't done that".