Has anyone fitted a woodburning stove & flue

Wig

I'm thinking about getting one for a house somewhere, I think the good news is the chimney is straight.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/classic-cast-iron-stoves/path/cast-iron-stoves

Choosing the size is a problem, I wonder how hot they really are? The room is only about 6m by 5 m (8ft high with no ceiling just the floorboards from upstairs floor) with a concrete & tiled floor (cold), window about 1m by 2m single glazed. but with the door open it could heat the small kitchen aswell and maybe send some heat up the stairs to the bedrooms.

So I'm wondering how do you install the flue? Do you connect the pieces and keep pushing the whole assembly up the chimney, do you have to climb up the chimney and secure the flue in anyway? What do you do at the top? On this house there is a chimney stack with two or three chimney pots.

Do these things flat pack?

Hapless_2

It is best to get things like this done by a HEATAS engineer as they have to be done to building regulations (J) standard I believe.
If done incorrectly you run the risk of fire and smoking the whole house out. remember smoke kills.

Lewis_Gerolemou

If your chimney has a good clay liner you should not need a flue. If it is a brick flue it MUST be lined otherwise the sulphates in the wood smoke will erode the mortar joints and you will have to rebuild the chimney. I ran a woodstove for 30 years, they are a great way to save money if you can get free wood. I used to burn 2-3 tons a year, it can be hard work or good exercise depending on your point of view. Don't burn the stove closed down for too long, the flue needs to get hot to avoid condesation and tarring up. My neighbour had two flue fires because he always smouldered his wood. Best to get an expert round to pick his brains and check your flue if you are going to DIY.

Wig

Well the reason I'm thinking stove & flue, is because apparently it used to be ok smokewise, but then some builders narrowed the chimney opening when I think they were asked to put in a metal baffle plate above the fire. I think they have put a row of bricks along somehow across the entire length of the opening, thus the opening was narrowed. So now when a fire is lit the smoke comes into the room.

I suppose if the flue takes the smoke past the ledge in the chimney it can make the rest of it's journey upwards as it used to? But maybe the rise of the smoke is dependant on the flow of air from the room getting past the internal ledge?

amd

If there has been a working fire in the chimney you should be able to tell if it's ok. Tar deposits often find their way through the brick and are obvious on the outside wall of the chimney - check inside the loft (where it isn't rendered) as it's more often higher up that the damage is done - where the chimney is colder.

You could fit single skin flue up to the baffle plate where the chimney opens up again. The flow is disrupted by the narrowing of the flue, so you need to get past that point and it should be fine. I'd try this first before lining the whole chimney if you decide the chimney is ok.

There should be no air gaps between flue and chimney, use plenty of fire cement, and make sure if the chimney is swept that everything should fall neatly back down into the flue for emptying at the stove. Get the chimney swept before you install anything.

Top Tip - only burn seasoned wood. Get it glowing, then (and only then) turn the stove airflow down. Leave the room doors open and the air will circulate to heat more rooms - we know a few people who do this - us included.

Have a look at www.stovesonline.co.uk for info. Loads on there.

stoveman

Wig wrote: »

I'm thinking about getting one for a house somewhere, I think the good news is the chimney is straight.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/classic-cast-iron-stoves/path/cast-iron-stoves

Choosing the size is a problem, I wonder how hot they really are? The room is only about 6m by 5 m (8ft high with no ceiling just the floorboards from upstairs floor) with a concrete & tiled floor (cold), window about 1m by 2m single glazed. but with the door open it could heat the small kitchen aswell and maybe send some heat up the stairs to the bedrooms.

So I'm wondering how do you install the flue? Do you connect the pieces and keep pushing the whole assembly up the chimney, do you have to climb up the chimney and secure the flue in anyway? What do you do at the top? On this house there is a chimney stack with two or three chimney pots.

Do these things flat pack?

Hello

If you want to install a woodburning stove and atre unsure of what heat out put you need use this online tool to work it out for you http://www.woodburnerwarehouse.co.uk/what_stove_output_do_i_need.phtml

With regatds to installing the flue if you can tell me what chimney system you have there I will advise accordingly.

If you want information on how to install flue then the following site is good http://www.woodburnerwarehouse.co.uk/installing_a_stove.phtml

They also have excellent prices on stoves.

If you require any further help please post here or pm me

Wig

Thanks stoveman from reading the linked "how to" guides I have seen that the stove pipe only goes from the stove to the register plate. I was thinking before that the pipe would have to go all the way up to the roof. So that is much easier to do.

It's difficult for me to say what type of chimney as I am nowhere near the chimney and only get to see it for 2 weeks each year. But from memory it is an unlined (stone built cottage - not sure if it the chimney itsef if is brick or stone) chimney. The fire place opening is approx 1m x 1m x 1m (h w d) the chimney opening is approx 50 cm x 80cm at fireplace level, running straight up to a roof top chimney stack tapering as it goes up, full height of chimney maybe 8 - 10m

The fireplace is in current use for wood but the register plate installation has gone wrong and causes the smoke to come into the room.

My guess is a new registerplate with a hole cut out for the stove pipe is needed, then seal it all with fire cement, a nice stove, and all should be well.

The calculator said 6.5 KW but maybe upto 9KW would be better to help heat the rest of the house (which has no heating).

stoveman

hi there,

If you installing into a chimney that is unlined then you must install a register plate that is made from 1.5mm steel and must be sealed so that smoke does not come back into the room.

Common practice would be to line the chimney as it will help protect the chimney and stock tar deposits building up which can cause chimney fires. also flexible liner heats up a lot quicker therefore the draw is better.