Solar IBoost+ experience

JKenH

Solarchaser said:

Hmm... I don't see how the length of a supply cable after what is effectively a switch would make any difference to be honest. 

If you had said from the ct clamp to the iboost, then I could see the logic in signal interference causing an issue with the unit causing erratic operation and putting undue stress on the unit, but I struggle to see how length of supply cable would cause it.

I think it is more than just a switch. From the instructions.
. The Output of the Solar iBoost+ is a specially modulated DC output which must never be connected to the normal AC circuit.

Hexane

JKenH said:

I did consider whether to try an Eddi as I already have a Zappi but am concerned that it might suffer from the same “noise” problem.

I've looked in my Eddi manual (2017 vintage) and it doesn't mention anything about cable lengths. However, it does mention their "varisine technology" being used on the immersion heater output - I think this is something to do with noise control so perhaps has some bearing on the problem? Maybe worth asking on their support forum at www.myenergi.info ?

I noticed the government has started muttering about shifting some of the financial costs of the green agenda onto gas supply (as well as food) so it may be that the longstanding situation of solar diverter savings being minimal, might be somewhat changing in the future.

cool_techie

JKenH said:

PS I now have an IBoost Buddy for sale. 

Hi JKenH,
I would like to buy the Buddy off you. Please PM cost and postage!
Thanks, CT

JKenH

cool_techie said:

JKenH said:

PS I now have an IBoost Buddy for sale. 

Hi JKenH,
I would like to buy the Buddy off you. Please PM cost and postage!
Thanks, CT

PM sent. 

plandregan

My buddy is reading way low. 
1.9kw on a proper CT meter with power factor correction. 
Buddy reading 1.2kw. With a new sender 250 unit, costing 60 quid. 

JKenH

My Buddy reads low compared to my smart meter, around 20% lower at around 500w but it never goes above approximately 5000w even when I am drawing 15,000w during my power hour. I still find it useful, though, as I can see if there is power going to the water heater and in winter if there is I will switch on one of my ASHPs rather than send to the tank. 

Once I got the old IBoost off the wall, I found there was a fuse (not accessible without removing and some dismantling). I replaced that, reconnected and, touch wood, it’s working again.

So far it has saved 4939 kWh, or around 140kWh on average per month, close on 1700kWh per year. If I assume that’s displacing Octopus Go Faster cheap rate electricity, it works out at £93.50 pa. For the first couple of years I was on an E7 tariff so was saving around £150/year. If it carries in working then in March, when the Go Faster rate increases to 8.25p, the saving will be around £140/year. Before I got the ASHPs I used to save more in winter.

Reed_Richards

A clip-on ferrite choke might filter out the noise if you haven't got a 15 m 3 Amp screened cable.

Cottage_Economy

Thought I’d join the ‘my iBoost has died’ club and I’m debating whether to replace. It’s come right on top of replacing my inverter due to mechanical damage on one string’s connector, which has really sapped our savings unexpectedly by £1300.

I’m going through Marlec’s process at the moment to see if I can get a refurbished unit for £150 and it is just under three years old, but if I’m honest given the way this is shaping up with getting someone in to check the immersion element (and paying for that diagnostic check) so I can fulfil Marlec’s requirements I can see this adding up to more than happy paying for right now. 

We’re on heating oil not gas and we’ve always been pretty frugal users of it even before the iBoost, so contemplating not replacing it and seeing how we go. We use most of the hot water first thing in the morning and very little in evening and could probably cut the programme down with careful timing. The heating will probably be going off mid-April so we won’t be using much oil over the summer months. 

I’ll be putting the old inverter on eBay, as I’ve been told it still has a value because one string connector is perfectly a fine and had 13 panels on that before removal so that might ameliorate some of the costs

JKenH

Cottage_Economy said:

Thought I’d join the ‘my iBoost has died’ club and I’m debating whether to replace. It’s come right on top of replacing my inverter due to mechanical damage on one string’s connector, which has really sapped our savings unexpectedly by £1300.

I’m going through Marlec’s process at the moment to see if I can get a refurbished unit for £150 and it is just under three years old, but if I’m honest given the way this is shaping up with getting someone in to check the immersion element (and paying for that diagnostic check) so I can fulfil Marlec’s requirements I can see this adding up to more than happy paying for right now. 

We’re on heating oil not gas and we’ve always been pretty frugal users of it even before the iBoost, so contemplating not replacing it and seeing how we go. We use most of the hot water first thing in the morning and very little in evening and could probably cut the programme down with careful timing. The heating will probably be going off mid-April so we won’t be using much oil over the summer months. 

I’ll be putting the old inverter on eBay, as I’ve been told it still has a value because one string connector is perfectly a fine and had 13 panels on that before removal so that might ameliorate some of the costs

Just check the internal fuse, easily accessible once the iBoost is off the wall, before sending it back to Marlec. I replaced mine and (touch wood) it has worked fine since. Having said that I am only currently sending power to heater 1 and need to check if that is the immersion heater at fault. I have seen the display switch briefly to heater 2 before a second later saying “water tank hot”

ispookie666

Joined the iBoost+ club. Looks like it has high failure rate. Our iBoost from 2015 is still going strong.