USB leads for electronic project kits?

[Deleted User]

Would anyone have a link (preferably Amazon), for some pre-wired leads, consisting of a USB plug on one end, and bare wires on the other, that can be soldered to the PCB of an electronic project kit, to power it?

Thanks.

Browntoa

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142821940156

Cornucopia

USB leads are so cheap that it's probably easiest to get them with any terminating connection on the "wrong" end and cut it off.

Even the basic Poundshop leads are pretty good quality.

If you can find ones that have a full-size USB plug on both ends, you could make two from one lead.

If you're prepared to wait: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hot-Sale-70cm-High-Speed-USB-2-0-Shielded-A-Male-to-A-Male-Cable-Lead-Black/251965708310?hash=item3aaa539816:g:RBMAAOSweW5VWs-Z:rk:8:pf:0

maxmycardagain

on the matter of USB leads i bought a PC with two USB ports on the front and 3 on the rear..........

my standard USB, leads ive discovered of late, wont go in the rear USB ports......... are there different ports/sizes? the rears are marked "USB"

Cornucopia

maxmycardagain wrote: »

on the matter of USB leads i bought a PC with two USB ports on the front and 3 on the rear..........

my standard USB, leads ive discovered of late, wont go in the rear USB ports......... are there different ports/sizes? the rears are marked "USB"

Photos? Model number?

Are you sure some of them aren't HDMI? They look similar.

Chino

maxmycardagain wrote: »

my standard USB, leads ive discovered of late, wont go in the rear USB ports......... are there different ports/sizes? the rears are marked "USB"

Are the sockets on the rear USB Type-C ports?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_Type-C

forgotmyname

100% £ shop braided USB cables. Chop the bit off that you dont need maybe useful for another project so leave a bit of cable on the connector.

Lorian

if you just want the to power a small PCB/Vero project then consider something like this as it is much easier and cleaner than soldering on a cable, which will break during use.

Solder this to your board then you can plug in a regular micro usb cable.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Female-Micro-USB-DIP-Adapter-Converter-PCB-Breakout-Board-Module-UK-Stock-ARD33/333090842259

this is just an example I have no experience of this seller. You can get them on amazon too - just watch the price. just search "micro usb dip"

[Deleted User]

I've just found this.

A USB device must indicate its speed by pulling either the D+ or D- line high to 3.3 volts. These pull up resistors at the device end will also be used by the host or hub to detect the presence of a device connected to its port. Without a pull up resistor, USB assumes there is nothing connected to the bus. (Emphasis is mine)

If I connect just the two outside leads (VCC and GND), will it still supply power, even though there's no 3.3v to pins 2 or 3?

Cornucopia

Yes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lnIviZ9Aqs

psychic_teabag

Bedsit_Bob wrote: »

I've just found this.

A USB device must indicate its speed by pulling either the D+ or D- line high to 3.3 volts. These pull up resistors at the device end will also be used by the host or hub to detect the presence of a device connected to its port. Without a pull up resistor, USB assumes there is nothing connected to the bus. (Emphasis is mine)

If I connect just the two outside leads (VCC and GND), will it still supply power, even though there's no 3.3v to pins 2 or 3?

Are you planning on powering from a dedicated charger, or from a pc ? The USB spec defines "charging ports" which will provide more power by default.

I think a device should draw no more than 100mA from a USB data port until it has formally negotiated more.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_(Physical)#Power