Strange Power *pics* updated

-taff

repointing is just cement forced into the gap between the bricks to seal it better and then finished to make it look pretty.
If you are going to do this, I would also check where the fence is attached to the wall and whether the fixings have damaged any bricks, as the bottom is level with that line of briks, the screw may well have damaged them.. No point in doing half a job.
the powder is as post #5.
DPC is usually two or three bricks above ground, I honestly can't tell where your is.

sofsofsof

-taff wrote: »

repointing is just cement forced into the gap between the bricks to seal it better and then finished to make it look pretty.
If you are going to do this, I would also check where the fence is attached to the wall and whether the fixings have damaged any bricks, as the bottom is level with that line of briks, the screw may well have damaged them.. No point in doing half a job.
the powder is as post #5.
DPC is usually two or three bricks above ground, I honestly can't tell where your is.

Thanks Taff for help so far.. so i am clear the powder you believe IS efflorance ... that or just condensation from inside home?
And, what i meant about mortar is does it matter what type is it.. as i know that line of mortar is the line of damp proof coursing? since its that dpc line can it still just be any old mortar to fill gap?

-taff

I don't know to be honest because I can't see or smell it or touch it, but try the condensation routw first because if it is that then its less work
For the mortar, I'd just use ordinary with some plasticiser, but I'm sure someone will be along to advise better. I'm just a home DIYer with no specialist knowledge.....

sofsofsof

-taff wrote: »

I don't know to be honest because I can't see or smell it or touch it, but try the condensation routw first because if it is that then its less work
For the mortar, I'd just use ordinary with some plasticiser, but I'm sure someone will be along to advise better. I'm just a home DIYer with no specialist knowledge.....

Thank You again Taff. I had a check of my property report again, done 18 months ago.. it mentions how damp proofing is high at 75-150mm and how the moisture levels in the area are very much in the accpetable levels.. he does mention some repointing may be required by age related wear and tear.
we are going to repoint and look at a salt eliminator just incase..

DaftyDuck

You can clearly see where the dpc is in the photos. But, I'd be wary of just stuffing cement in. You stand to cause more damage if you get it wrong.... and you CAN get it wrong. You can easily bridge the damp course throughout, or edge the mortar wrongly, and cause even worse problems.

Before doing that kind of work, do check out that fence post, as post#2, and do lower condensation levels in the house of possible. If that corner is blocked by furniture and is cool, it's a likely place for condensation.

sofsofsof

DaftyDuck wrote: »

You can clearly see where the dpc is in the photos. But, I'd be wary of just stuffing cement in. You stand to cause more damage if you get it wrong.... and you CAN get it wrong. You can easily bridge the damp course throughout, or edge the mortar wrongly, and cause even worse problems.

Before doing that kind of work, do check out that fence post, as post#2, and do lower condensation levels in the house of possible. If that corner is blocked by furniture and is cool, it's a likely place for condensation.

hi, when you say not to just cement it in what do you mean? someone has told us to scrape old bits out and just recement the little bits that are missing with morter. how can you do it wrong? and how would doing it wrong breach the damp proofing course on the outside? just so i understand the risks involved.. our house does suffer from condensation mind.. since we moved in..


we was going to buy moltar and just attempt to fill the holes in it.. in reality they really are teeny tiny. ill attach a photo, where you can see some moltar is missing is the exact wall this powder is on.. is there a speicific moltar i should be as this is the damp proofing line i would be adding moltar too.. it does make me nervous to but if it is efflorescene it cant be good to just leave right?


but i am with you a little bit as the damp coursing line (not that specific spot) but generally has a 'skin' will just filling holes with moltar rewen that skin? doesnt something different need to be in there to keep damp course effective?


sorry for all questions


and the moltar in there now has just got to be ordinary moltar?



https://ibb.co/8dQNWt8

sofsofsof

I have just been recommended to buy Bondacryl for when filling in moltar gaps.. Should i? It apparently waterproofs the moltar.. is there anything that does similar out there?

stuart45

Just use ordinary mortar. It looks like you have a cavity wall that should prevent moisture from the outer skin getting to the inner one, unless the cavity is blocked.

sofsofsof

stuart45 wrote: »

Just use ordinary mortar. It looks like you have a cavity wall that should prevent moisture from the outer skin getting to the inner one, unless the cavity is blocked.

thanks stuart, my worry is it is the line of missing mortar is on the damp coursing line. if you see pics, damp coursing is 3 bricks up and the layer or mortar above that third brick that is thicker / dcp line.. my worry was just filling in that hole with any old mortar would do something damaging to the damp coursing and stop it working? or is that not possible? any insight/advice welcome! dont know what to do for best, it is only a tiny spot of powder and i dont think anyone is going to want to come out and just do that tiny section of repointing.. (i wouldnt want any other repointing done as not neccesary.)
ive read the mortar wearing away is a age related issue?

stuart45

You won't damage the DPC by jointing it in. The joints are done with a round jointer, we used to use old bucket handles, but you can buy them now. You could use a piece of bent copper pipe for the amount that you are doing.