War on cold 1930s semi

Princess_Money_Penny

Hello

We’re about to spend the second winter in a cold 1930s semi. What can I do to warm us up and how do I go about it? I’m already getting the bays upstairs insulated at the beginning of September.

What else can I do? Cavity wall insulation? Who should I ring up and can you get it subsidised? Loft insulation? Anything else I may have missed?

Thank you for any help as I’m really clueless!

Doozergirl

Loft insulation is the most noticeable and valuable insulation. Do it first.

We're in a 1930s semi and the biggest difference by far, renovating over time, was loft insulation and a modern, efficient boiler. I've resisted cavity insulation, I'm just not confident that it won't trigger damp problems.

Nice thick curtains too, that don't allow a cold breeze through gaps.

gardner1

Doozergirl wrote: »

Loft insulation is the most noticeable and valuable insulation. Do it first.

We're in a 1930s semi and the biggest difference by far, renovating over time, was loft insulation and a modern, efficient boiler. I've resisted cavity insulation, I'm just not confident that it won't trigger damp problems.

Nice thick curtains too, that don't allow a cold breeze through gaps.

Plus carpets.......not laminate

stator

Assuming you have double glazing already?
Loft insulation is a must. Top it up if you don't have modern insulation.
Cavity wall insulation is good, depends on your type of house, 1930s should be suitable.
Elimination draughts is a good idea. Look for holes that haven't been filled in, around pipework, under bath, floorboards etc

Davesnave

A lot of 1930s houses aren't especially well built, so I'd want to know what state the cavities were in. I'd have an independent inspection before deciding whether to fill them.

I'd also think about the weather exposure the house is subjected to and rainfall levels in my area of the country. Those things make a large difference too.

Also consider the external surfaces of the walls. Mine are rendered and painted, but I've had no issues with water penetration/damp that I half-expected in an attached single skinned outhouse, and we're at 500' in a wet area.


So do the checks. Most people probably don't and get away with it, but then there are the others.....

FreeBear

Doozergirl wrote: »

Nice thick curtains too, that don't allow a cold breeze through gaps.

Thick curtains do make a surprising difference to how much heat disappears through the windows - Also worth hanging one over the front & back doors.

If you haven't already got it, double glazing should be fitted - Find an installer that has experience of 1930s properties. Many of them will need a steel inserted to support the outer leaf of the wall, and bay windows need proper supports either side.

Loft insulation - Check with your energy supplier. Most of them will upgrade the loft insulation under the ECO scheme, and it may even be free. What ever you do, do NOT have Icynene or polyurethane foam sprayed in to the loft space. The marketing blurb claims it protects the timbers and holds the roof tiles in place. The reality is it traps moisture in the timbers, leading to rot and renders the tiles difficult to remove without damage.

Even if you don't qualify for free loft insulation under the ECO scheme, keep an eye on the likes of Wickes & B&Q and grab a few rolls of rockwool/fiberglass insulation - They regularly have a 3 for 2 offer throughout the year.

As for draughts, another common source is the gap between the floorboards & skirtting - Fill these, put down a decent underlay, and top off with a good quality carpet.

Got any unused fireplaces ?
Plug the flue with a chimney sheep or old blanket.

Lorian

Also check the loft hatch is insulated.

giraffe69

They regularly have a 2 for 3 offer throughout the year.

That wouldn't be a great offer! :rotfl:

cattie

I used to own a 30's house & had the loft, including loft hatch properly insulated as what was up there was ancient & insufficient. I also had cavity wall insulation done & it made a big difference to helping the house be much warmer.

If you can get it done free or at a reduced cost, then so much better. I know I got a grant towards my cavity wall insulation but this was a few years ago now. Have a look here to see if you can get it done under any existing scheme. http://www.government-grants.co.uk/free-insulation

FreeBear

giraffe69 wrote: »

That wouldn't be a great offer! :rotfl:

Its early, a bank holiday weekend, and the regressive blonde gene is kicking in.

pinklady21

I have a 1930's house - about to have the cavity wall insulation removed due to dampness in the cavity.
Agree with others, loft insulation, thick curtains, possibly underfloor insulation if you have access under the floor, possibly consider insulating / thermal wallpaper on the outside walls?
Ask the energy saving trust if they can come and do an energy survey on your house, they might come up with things you have not thought of.