Rising Damp after Salt Test, how to proceed...

TamsinC

G_M wrote: »

PCA code of practice, BS6576


so a chemical dpc injector.

which could actually make things worse!

Birty2k

So you!!!8217;re actually saying I should proceed and do nothing? All I!!!8217;m saying is if I come to sell the property I would encounter the exact same issues.

TamsinC

Birty2k wrote: »

So you!!!8217;re actually saying I should proceed and do nothing? All I!!!8217;m saying is if I come to sell the property I would encounter the exact same issues.

No, I'm saying find the reason and treat it - BUT don't assume a chemical damp course will cure the problem as it probably won't. Have a really good read of that site - it explains an awful lot and I'm not going to cut and paste it all here. There will be reasons it's damp with salt; like the old plaster wasn't removed properly before replastering; or there is a blocked air block; or a leaky gutter or many other reasons. By all means renegotiate the asking price using the damp course survey as evidence BUT once you get in be a tad more pragmatic and don't immediately go for injectable damp courses (these may become the new PPI of the housing world - causing more damage in older buildings than they claim to cure) and look into what is REALLY causing the damp and cure that first. It may be you just need to replaster with lime plaster rather than gypsum in order to allow the house to breathe in those sections.

How old is the house?

In the end it's your choice - you do your research and makes your decision.

Birty2k

The house was built circa 1900-1920. I understand where you are coming from, I will have a more in depth read but if what you think is correct and it is just maintenance over the coming months/years I will just renegotiate based on the bill of work being done.

SG27

Birty2k wrote: »

So you!!!8217;re actually saying I should proceed and do nothing? All I!!!8217;m saying is if I come to sell the property I would encounter the exact same issues.

Personally what I would do is try my luck at knocking 2.5k off the price. (However if someone tried it with my house I would refuse!) Then move in wait a year and see if there is any real problem.

DONT get the vendor to do anything even if they promise guarantees.

Doozergirl

Birty2k wrote: »

From the report:

Test Area:
--Front lounge, Front elevation to the left hand side of the radiator.
--Rear Dining- Left hand party wall.
--The dividing wall of the kitchen/ dining room to the side of the radiator within the kitchen.

The Results: The 10 cc beaker detected nitrate salts and the 50cc beaker detected nitrate salts in significant quantities. This is a definitive result that there is dampness within the tested walls for the common form of dampness known as rising dampness. As sated within the original report I would suggest that the works are carried out to prevent any further dampness occurring to the walls.

Front Elevation:

An inspection was carried out to ensure that all of the external ground levels adjacent to the external walls, are approximately 150mm below the existing damp proof course and the internal floor levels to prevent moisture from migrating through the structure.
I have assessed the pathways adjacent to all of the elevations and conclude that the ground levels at the time of my inspection are not 150mm below the floor level of the kitchen, dining and front elevation. A further inspection within the property to the ground floor external walls did not give me any real concern to indicate significant dampness due to the level of the external ground levels.

However salt action was visible to the front elevation wall to the side of the radiator.
Front Elevation

The paved walkway to the front elevation is sloping and the corner of the left hand party wall is below the ground level and in my opinion allowing moisture to migrate through the wall creating the salt action.

Recommendations should dampness occur: Front elevation !!!8211; Apply a tanked system to comply with BS8102 structures below ground.

Ground Floor Walls

6.2 Ground Floor Walls
Observations & Recommendations: Essential Works
There were signs of dampness to the ground floor walls by the showing of damp patches and surface salt. Further investigations with a salt test, concludes there is dampness within the plastered walls due to rising dampness.

In order to offer a dry environment for the occupants, I recommend the following scopes of works are carried out all in accordance with the PCA code of practice, BS6576:-
--All of the front elevation.
--All of the left hand party wall within the front lounge and rear dining.
--All of the rear elevation beyond the radiator within the kitchen

£2300 plus VAT he has roughly quoted.

As for why it has been re plastered, I cannot answer that...

What a pile of manure.

You've just paid someone £180 to test some plaster for damp and then point out the bleeding obvious. And then potentially recommend the wrong course of treatment.

Firstly, the test didn't prove 'rising damp', it proved damp. You can see it with your bare eyes.

Secondly, I would have walked around your house, looked at where the spots were and then observed that the interior ground level is below exterior ground level at some point. No test needed to see that damp is damp.

Thirdly, the method to address it is to establish exactly how far below ground level the internals are and then work out if the earth can be removed to 150mm below DPC. If it's over the DPc then it doesn't take a rocket scientist to work out that it's blatantly breached. It isn't a new DPC that is needed, it's protecting the existing one which hasn't failed, has just been breached.

Make sure patios and driveways deliberately slope away from the house.

People suggest paid for surveys but I don't think the majority of those people offer any value for money either. Especially when the advice is work inside.

The absolute logic is to find the source and fix it. If the source is outside, would you fix outside or inside?

Birty2k

So based on what you say, would you just use the survey to try and knock another 1.5-2k off the house and protect and maintain the current DPC?

Doozergirl

Exactly that.

LadyDee

OP, if you are looking at houses 100 years old then there will inevitably be something that needs money spending on it. If all that is worrying you is three small areas of damp which could, I stress could, cost £2,500 to fix (and which don't need doing overnight), then you will likely spend a good deal more searching for a house with no problems. Extra survey fees, solicitors costs, search fees, additional tests.

In your position I would certainly try to negotiate with the vendor but at the end of the day, add up the costs of pulling out and starting your search all over again, and see if you think it's worth it.