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New Driveway

Hi all,

We need a new driveway, it's quite large approx 45ft wide X 20ft deep, currently half the driveway is concrete for parking and half is garden. We'd like to do the whole lot for ease of maintenance and and extra parking space.

We've ruled out gravel and block paving because of the maintenance, after a few years you would end up weeding, or laying extra gravel etc.

We thought about having Tarmac but then saw a rubber crumb driveway and thought it was nice, the trouble is there's only one supplier round here so I'm unable to compare quotes. I also like the fact that we could choose a colour for rubbercrumb as the brickwork to our house is quite boring so a nice warm brown driveway would improve the overall appearance. The trouble is when the mean came out he said he would lay the rubbercrumb over the existing concrete which is breaking up and in places sounds hollow underneath (cowboy builders apparently installed by previous homeowners). I don't like the idea of that although this driveway is breaking up it has lasted approx 14 years. So our first question would be is it wise to lay rubbercrumb over that?

We've also found out about resin driveways, whilst the rubbercrumb man was here we got talking about what we wanted and he was (probably for obvious reasons!) against them saying they crack after a few years. Would that be true?

Has anyone any advice at all or further ideas? I wanted this driveway done by springtime but we're hesitant about choosing from the advice we've had so far.

Thanks in advance.


Happy moneysaving all.
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Comments

  • EachPenny
    EachPenny Posts: 12,239 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    sassyblue wrote: »
    Has anyone any advice at all or further ideas? I wanted this driveway done by springtime but we're hesitant about choosing from the advice we've had so far.

    Almost any thin surfacing material will get damaged if it is laid on an existing damaged surface, and you may have problems like differential settlement if part of the surface is on existing concrete and part is on newly constructed area (the bit which is currently garden).

    Coloured surfaces look good when new (as shown in the brochure) but most will fade with time and the fading might not be consistent across the whole area (depending on shadows and parked cars etc).

    It isn't a job to rush into - you will be spending a lot of money on this and you really need to make sure what you are doing is right, not what looks best in the pictures.

    You also need to check with the local council regarding restrictions over paving front gardens. The restrictions vary according to where you live, but you might be required to keep a certain percentage (up to 100%) of the existing garden as garden, and/or the surfacing material you use might need to be porous.

    Although you've more or less ruled out gravel, you might want to reconsider this in light of any restrictions that apply to your home.
    "In the future, everyone will be rich for 15 minutes"
  • Ectophile
    Ectophile Posts: 7,905 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    There may also be restrictions on non-porous driveways. If so, you (or the builder) will need to lay new soakaways to get rid of the rain falling on the driveway.
    If it sticks, force it.
    If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.
  • sassyblue
    sassyblue Posts: 3,793 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Thank you. Good point about restrictions, we hadn't even thought of that...


    Happy moneysaving all.
  • Furts
    Furts Posts: 4,474 Forumite
    If you want an ever lasting, easy to lay, multitude of colours and easy to repair drive then there is only one answer - block paving. This will also satisfy any Planning Conditions with drainage because if you wish you can specify the permeable blocks - permeable and non permeable are made.

    I would avoid the 50mm blocks available from DIY sheds - 60mm is the minimum any council specifies for light use areas.

    Personal opinion is avoid rubber crumb like it was a plague. You only have to look at childrens play areas and see where it is lifting/peeling and that is just from wear and tear by children's feet. Imagine what will happen when vehicles scuff it. Not convinced? I am open to ideas and better judgement but I have never yet seen a rubber crumb road specified by any Council!
  • Typhoon2000
    Typhoon2000 Posts: 1,170 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Correctly laid block paving is very resistant to weeds. Sealing it afterwards makes is more so. You can get that fine stuff just growing in the sharp sand but going over with path clear weed killer once a year in watering can is just a 10 minute job.
  • Correctly laid block paving is very resistant to weeds. Sealing it afterwards makes is more so. You can get that fine stuff just growing in the sharp sand but going over with path clear weed killer once a year in watering can is just a 10 minute job.

    Block paving is what I'm weighing up for when (one of these fine days) I can afford to rip up Current Grotty Drive.

    So - wondering what the organic alternative would be for the once-a-year watering can treatment please - as I'm an organic gardener.
  • Soot2006
    Soot2006 Posts: 2,184 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Block paving is what I'm weighing up for when (one of these fine days) I can afford to rip up Current Grotty Drive.

    So - wondering what the organic alternative would be for the once-a-year watering can treatment please - as I'm an organic gardener.

    I made an organic weed killer (broad leaf) using vinegar and salt and things like that. Can't remember the detail but plenty of online recipes (and ready made products too) ... I quite like pulling weeds in the sunshine :p
  • Furts
    Furts Posts: 4,474 Forumite
    Block paving is what I'm weighing up for when (one of these fine days) I can afford to rip up Current Grotty Drive.

    So - wondering what the organic alternative would be for the once-a-year watering can treatment please - as I'm an organic gardener.

    The once a year you refer to is a myth. Dover Harbour was a pioneer with vast areas of block paving decades back. I doubt they go round weed killing and I do not see weeds growing there. Adjacent to my home is an area of block paving for access cars/vans. Been there 30 years and never needed any maintenance - stills looks good and no weeds have appeared. Likewise my drive extended by yours truly and no weeds!

    Permeable paving can get weeds - the gaps between the blocks allow seeds to settle in. So only install permeable if you really have to. Think Planning requirements here. But if the gaps are topped up with sand there should not be a great issue.

    I have a problem here with a permeable path but it is steeply sloping, very windy, and the sand tends to get washed out and weeds tend to get washed in. Which means location, design and levels need consideration.
  • "Think planning requirements" indeed.

    In my case - a lot more of the garden will be "natural" once I've dealt with it than is currently the case. So it will be a lot better situation for rainwater runoff than at present.

    What I am thinking is nfh - who cheerfully totally ignore every rule/everything else going - but if I didn't comply to "the letter of the law" might well "take the opportunity" regardless of what they get up to that they definitely shouldnt....:cool:
  • Furts
    Furts Posts: 4,474 Forumite
    "Think planning requirements" indeed.

    Pragmatic answer, unofficially, is to avoid permeable paving. An ugly, awful product. Aim for block paving and drain it into a soakaway, or onto your garden or maybe discretely into your surface water system. You draw up the Specification so you call the shots here.
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