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Leaky radiator valve thing

Hello everyone. Got a small problem, not sure if this is something I can do or not but there are small drips of water seeping out of this thing (top of rad, opposite side to the bleed valve) when the system is cold. Doesn't look like there is as much sealant stuff around it compared to the others. Any ideas how best to proceed?

valve.jpg

Comments

  • Mr.Generous
    Mr.Generous Posts: 4,015 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    Tighten it slightly with a large wrench. They usually seal on rubber and just need nipping up, although older rads can have a tapered thread which needs to be really tight.
    ZSetRatioSize600550-CW12-HighRes.jpg
    Mr Generous - Landlord for more than 10 years. Generous? - Possibly but sarcastic more likely.
  • newfoundglory
    newfoundglory Posts: 1,912 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    edited 31 March 2018 at 8:23PM
    Many thanks for your help.
    I've just ordered a 10 inch bahco wrench off Amazon (unbelievable being delivered tomorrow!)
    Stupid question, but I'm assuming its a clockwise turn to close?
  • scd3scd4
    scd3scd4 Posts: 1,180 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Third Anniversary
    edited 31 March 2018 at 9:51PM
    Righty Tighty Lefty Loosey


    Clockwise" starts with CL, and so does the word Close.


    If the above does not work then you can buy another end cap for a few pounds.
  • newfoundglory
    newfoundglory Posts: 1,912 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    edited 31 March 2018 at 8:50PM
    thanks - you can never be too sure - I don't want the central heating system all over the floor.

    I'm assuming you'd have to drain the system if the cap required a replacement?

    (its a new system all around, so fingers crossed it just needs a tighten from the heating being used over the last month or so)
  • Strange that it's leaking. If you shut off the valves at the bottom (both of them) you should be able to take the blanking cap off completely to inspect the rubber washer and mating surface for any damage. I've found the rubber seals can fail and if this has happened you can either buy a new blanking cap or just the washer (if you can find one). If it looks ok and you stick with the original I'd suggest wrapping some PTFE tape around the threads to help with the seal.
  • tower
    tower Posts: 264 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    thanks - you can never be too sure - I don't want the central heating system all over the floor.

    I'm assuming you'd have to drain the system if the cap required a replacement?

    (its a new system all around, so fingers crossed it just needs a tighten from the heating being used over the last month or so)

    You shouldn't need to drain system, just isolate that radiator by the bottom valves.

    Drain as much water via the top bleeding point. Before removing end cap leaking ( there may be some water here to) but once the water level has dropped below the cap you should be ok.
  • newfoundglory
    newfoundglory Posts: 1,912 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    edited 31 March 2018 at 10:26PM
    Thanks! Since moving in I've have to modify the lockshield end of most radiators to balance the system, but if there are thermostatic valves on the other side of the rads is it still possible to completely isolate the radiator like you suggest if this became a real problem?

    This is definitely a problem - and might be the cause of very slight drops in the boiler pressure I have been noticing..
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