Boarding loft floor for storage

dunroving

EachPenny wrote: »

...which is why it is important to get appropriate advice for the OP's specific circumstances rather than relying on generalisations like:-



The OP gives no information about the age of the house, the type of roof construction, any prior modifications, nor the condition of the existing timbers. For all we know it could be an old house with roof timbers full of woodworm, or a brand new house with bare minimum timber trusses (and a still valid guarantee).

Just to be clear, I didn't actually say, "we didn't reinforce our joists and 20 years later our loft conversion is still standing". I was giving that as an example of the kinds of things OTHER people have said on OTHER threads.

Having said that, I WAS riding my turbo trainer in my boarded attic until I started reading some of these threads! [but don't tell anyone I said that!]

EachPenny

dunroving wrote: »

Just to be clear, I didn't actually say, "we didn't reinforce our joists and 20 years later our loft conversion is still standing". I was giving that as an example of the kinds of things OTHER people have said on OTHER threads.

Having said that, I WAS riding my turbo trainer in my boarded attic until I started reading some of these threads! [but don't tell anyone I said that!]

Yes, don't wory, I understood you weren't suggesting that yourself.

TheCyclingProgrammer

AFAIK, generally going across will make it more rigid but it won!!!8217;t increase the strength of the joists. As somebody else mentioned you might in face have trusses which are often designed to support your roof plus some additional load for snow and not much more so there!!!8217;s no one size fits all answer.

Our house is a 1930s build with joists. I added extra cross members at regular centres (60cm I think I went with) because the joist spacing was irregular and non standard. This also allowed for some airflow between the loft boards and the insulation. We have about 100mm of insulation and can!!!8217;t easily go higher without creating cold spots due to the skeilings in our roof so I wasn!!!8217;t worried about the extra height. If I wanted 270mm insulation I would have gone for one of those LoftZone kits instead.

longwalks1

EachPenny wrote: »

...which is why it is important to get appropriate advice for the OP's specific circumstances rather than relying on generalisations like:-



The OP gives no information about the age of the house,
1930's semi detached
the type of roof construction,
unsure on the roof, but joists are 4x2" from front of house to back, 32cm gaps, currenlty insulated with old wool type
any prior modifications,
no prior mods
nor the condition of the existing timbers.
existing timers look good and strong, and centre of the loft (from chimney stack to half way down has 2 more 4x2" timbers running (width of chimney, approx 1.36m apart
For all we know it could be an old house with roof timbers full of woodworm, or a brand new house with bare minimum timber trusses (and a still valid guarantee).

Sorry been away for a couple of days, please find info on the house and loft type