How to make conservatory roof water-tight?

TuppenceHapenny

Lorian wrote: »

Google "rubber glazing gasket" and select images. You can get all sorts of shapes and sizes.

Thanks for the reply. Do you have any views on what would be the best sort of shape/size to get and how best to fix it in place? The height of the gap I need to fill varies a bit but is approximately 5 mm.

TuppenceHapenny

booned wrote: »

• Take the affected timber bars off and look for signs of rot.
• If they are beyond saving, buy some new ones.
• Let the good ones dry out completely
• Buy a good quality epoxy or wood filler and restore the beams if needed.
• Treat the wood with a good quality wood treatment oil.
• Remove any bad seals and any other debris (silicone etc)
• Buy some expanding foam tape to replace any bad seals.

Thanks for this advice. I will think again about whether to get the roof fixed properly, though the steps you've outlined seem like a significant undertaking - could you see this being done by a DIYer or would you recommend getting professionals in to do it (and do you know what they would be likely to charge)?

TuppenceHapenny

Can anyone advise about 'non-hardening' sealants and whether using this might solve my roof problem? If so, which one to get and where to get it?
Also, can anyone advise about 'Silicone-P' - is this something intended for use with plastic roof sheets as found on some conservatries?

TuppenceHapenny

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I need more advice.

It seems that the thing I need is called a Timber Bubble Seal, but I'm not sure of the dimensions of the seal I need, what brand of seal, where to get it etc. Can anybody with experience in this area advise - I've included a diagram of the glazing bar showing the dimensions of the slot where the seal needs to go?

bob_a_builder

Is that much different from the normal rubber double glazing seals, other than there seems to be no groove to lock/hold the rubber into the glazing bar - though that might just be your drawing

Just some examples ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/uPVC-Window-Door-Rubber-Draught-Excluder-Repair-Seal-Double-Glazing-PVC/222180646660

bob_a_builder

This is the 'cushion' type, which might hold better in a straight wooden slot rather than the normal T slot of UPVC

https://upvcspares4repairs.co.uk/gardinia-upvc-door-or-window-gasket-weather-draught-seal-qlon-in-black-or-white.html

Mistral001

What about traditional putty. It will bond to the timber better than to the plastic sheet, if the timber is prepared properly.

TuppenceHapenny

bob_a_builder wrote: »

Is that much different from the normal rubber double glazing seals, other than there seems to be no groove to lock/hold the rubber into the glazing bar - though that might just be your drawing

Just some examples ...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/uPVC-Window-Door-Rubber-Draught-Excluder-Repair-Seal-Double-Glazing-PVC/222180646660

These look like seals I've already tried - I got a sample pack (BUBBLE, FLIPPER UPVC WINDOW DOOR RUBBER GASKET SEAL TOP 10 SAMPLE PACK) and tried some out but they were all too small.

I then found by accident a larger (rubber bubble-type) seal in B&Q (Diall), described on the box as 'draught excluder - universal seal'. This fits much better but water is still getting in - it seems to be getting under the seal.

So I'm wondering if the dimensions of the seal are critical or the thickness of the rubber or exact type of rubber used really matters or something like that. I wondered if there might be bubble seals that are made exactly for conservatory roofs and that's what I need.

TuppenceHapenny

Mistral001 wrote: »

What about traditional putty. It will bond to the timber better than to the plastic sheet, if the timber is prepared properly.

Wouldn't it be inflexible when hardened? If so it would presumably crack as a result of the plastic roof sheets expanding and contracting?