Removing and replacing asbestos cement roof

Euripides

Hi,

I've read the countless threads on here, and on the internet in general regarding this, but would appreciate any advice from anyone caring enough to offer!

Need to remove and replace an asbestos cement rooof. One of the sheets has a whole in it (see pic). Quotes are ranging from 1.5k - 2k to remove and replace with either bitumen sheets or corrugated box profile sheeting. I'm considering doing it myself as local tip will allow disposal for 80quid.

Question is a) will it be safe even though one of the sheets has a hole in it providing I follow guidance from HSE (p3 mask, overalls, wet the sheets etc) and b) is it difficult to replace with bitumen or corrugated box profile sheeting?

Thanks in advance!

Davesnave

I would consider myself capable of doing it safely, probably in the rain(!) and after coating with SBR, but others will have their own opinions. You seem to have done your homework.

I would just comment that you will probably need extra roof supports if going for the corrugated bitumen sheet option, as they can sag in the heat. Me, I'd go for pressed steel painted/coated, or galvanised, depending on how pretty it needed to be.

EachPenny

Davesnave wrote: »

I would consider myself capable of doing it safely, probably in the rain(!) and after coating with SBR, but others will have their own opinions. You seem to have done your homework.

I would just comment that you will probably need extra roof supports if going for the corrugated bitumen sheet option, as they can sag in the heat. Me, I'd go for pressed steel painted/coated, or galvanised, depending on how pretty it needed to be.

I agree with Davesnave, if you are willing to research and follow the HSE advice on safe working methods thenyou'd probably be ok with removing exterior asbestos cement roofing. The main issue is with the fixings - if these are easy to remove (i.e. non rusted bolts) then the risk is lower than if the sheets have fixings that cannot be removed easily. Where things start to go wrong is when the bolts won't undo and people resort to an angle grinder to remove them. The consequences of this should be obvious, but unfortunately not always.

I'd also second the advice to keep away from bitumen roofing and go for coated steel if you have the budget. But be aware that metal roofing can have condensation problems, so the roof either needs to be insulated, or fitted with an anti-condensation material.

Euripides

Thanks for your replies both. Very much appreciated.

I'm going to do it in two weeks when I have some time off work.

Would either of you be able to post a link to the type of roofing sheets that you are recommending? Some advice on how to insulate it would also be appreciated.

Many thanks,
Marvin

Davesnave

This is the sheet I've used on my barns, mainly because their production facility is quite close to where I live. Others are probably available:

https://www.roofingsheets.com/our-products/sheets/box-profile-341000-sheets-pvc-plastisol-07mm

silverwhistle

I've a similar issue, where my corrugated roof has been holed, on the outbuildings of my terraced house, but abuts that of the adjacent housing association property where the roof has already been done. It overlaps mine by one "ridge". I've been thinking of replacement by something like Onduline, has anyone any comments? Cheers.

Davesnave

I've already commented on corrugated bituminous sheeting.

silverwhistle

Ah. Ah yes.. It would appear my knowledge of nomenclature and materials was lacking!