Heating returning valve?

Rochdale007

The returning valve whuch goes to cyclinder..Does it needs be shut completely off or half round...how does it work....the valve was leaking ( its not having handle). I am with homeserve so calling to sort it out... he came repaired the valve full tight and its not leaking now... but i am having problem with radiator( biggest radiator in home) its not heating up property....i asked him change the valve but just stopped leak and went off...

Does the returning valve needs be shut off completely... i can feel the hot water is not entering cyclinder back after the valve

Need suggestions....

jk0

Krish007 wrote: »

The returning valve whuch goes to cyclinder..Does it needs be shut completely off or half round...how does it work....the valve was leaking ( its not having handle). I am with homeserve so calling to sort it out... he came repaired the valve full tight and its not leaking now... but i am having problem with radiator( biggest radiator in home) its not heating up property....i asked him change the valve but just stopped leak and went off...

Does the returning valve needs be shut off completely... i can feel the hot water is not entering cyclinder back after this valve...

Need suggestions.....

Sack homeswerve. As far as I can tell, their policies only provide an 'emergency' repair. Not a long term one.

System

On most systems, the valve is used to balance the heating flow from the boiler to the cylinder coil and the radiators. The valve doesn’t need to be fully open but it needs to be open enough to allow flow to the coil. Has your system got either an automatic bypass valve or a gated bypass pipe around the pump?

I would do the following:

1. Turn off HW heating via the programmer.

2. Select CH On to see if all the radiators get hot. If they do, slightly close the HW valve and see if they remain hot.

If the above doesn’t work they you may need a plumber to adjust the valve and balance your CH system. That said, if it worked OK before the valve was fiddled with then partially closing the HW valve should do the trick. It is more than likely with HW and CH selected on, the flow is finding the return which has the least resistance; ie, your cylinder coil. Closing off the valve slightly increases the resistance to flow which will then divert move of the pressure/flow to the CH system.

Rochdale007

Hengus wrote: »

On most systems, the valve is used to balance the heating flow from the boiler to the cylinder coil and the radiators. The valve doesn’t need to be fully open but it needs to be open enough to allow flow to the coil. Has your system got either an automatic bypass valve or a gated bypass pipe around the pump?

I would do the following:

1. Turn off HW heating via the programmer.

2. Select CH On to see if all the radiators get hot. If they do, slightly close the HW valve and see if they remain hot.

If the above doesn’t work they you may need a plumber to adjust the valve and balance your CH system. That said, if it worked OK before the valve was fiddled with then partially closing the HW valve should do the trick. It is more than likely with HW and CH selected on, the flow is finding the return which has the least resistance; ie, your cylinder coil. Closing off the valve slightly increases the resistance to flow which will then divert move of the pressure/flow to the CH system.

Actually the valve in return pipe doesn't have a handle....but when i asked the plumber he said this is how it will be... lools like its gate valve.... since i am new user i am not able upload photo... i done everything but no result.... the biggest is not getting hot enough..its double radiator all the other radiators are single panel one....there is 10 dgree Celsius difference ...

Rochdale007

jk0 wrote: »

Sack homeswerve. As far as I can tell, their policies only provide an 'emergency' repair. Not a long term one.

They work fine.... may be they lack in experience ....its depends upon who u get....

System

Krish007 wrote: »

Actually the valve in return pipe doesn't have a handle....but when i asked the plumber he said this is how it will be... lools like its gate valve.... since i am new user i am not able upload photo... i done everything but no result.... the biggest is not getting hot enough..its double radiator all the other radiators are single panel one....there is 10 dgree Celsius difference ...

A gate valve is like a normal stop valve but with a round wheel. This is usually on the flow (in) side of the cylinder coil. When you say 10C, how are you measuring this? The most likely reason why you are having problems is because your CH system is no longer balanced. Have a look at various searches on the topic. To get a balanced system you need to close off the lock valves on all radiators to get a measured temperature difference between the in and out flows on each radiator. This difference will depend on the type of boiler that you have installed.

Rochdale007

This is usually on the flow (in) side of the cylinder coil

What does it mean.... actually valve i am talking about is in the return pipe.... and i know valve looks like a gate valve but the round handle is missing.... thats what i asked that plumber but he said thats how is should be.... :eek:

System

Some installers remove the wheel to stop home-owners from fiddling with it. In theory, having a gate valve on the return pipe from the cylinder should work as well as one on the in flow. All it is doing is narrowing the diameter of the pipe and making it more difficult for water to flow. In an ‘s’ plan configuration with both zone valves open, it just means that a higher proportion of the flow will circulate around the heating system. The downside of this is that your cylinder will take longer to heat up.

Rochdale007

Hengus wrote: »

Some installers remove the wheel to stop home-owners from fiddling with it. In theory, having a gate valve on the return pipe from the cylinder should work as well as one on the in flow. All it is doing is narrowing the diameter of the pipe and making it more difficult for water to flow. In an ‘s’ plan configuration with both zone valves open, it just means that a higher proportion of the flow will circulate around the heating system. The downside of this is that your cylinder will take longer to heat up.

I am planning to change the valve on my now..... and i dont have valve in flow pipe....if we close the valve for hw and open the valve ch will it work....

Rochdale007

Hengus wrote: »

Some installers remove the wheel to stop home-owners from fiddling with it. In theory, having a gate valve on the return pipe from the cylinder should work as well as one on the in flow. All it is doing is narrowing the diameter of the pipe and making it more difficult for water to flow. In an ‘s’ plan configuration with both zone valves open, it just means that a higher proportion of the flow will circulate around the heating system. The downside of this is that your cylinder will take longer to heat up.

What s plan configuration.....

System

'S' Plan is a heating system with two motorised valves. One valve to control the flow to the cylinder and the other to control the flow to the radiators.

https://www.plumberparts.co.uk/advice/heating-systems/s-plan-heating-system