Cooker wiring question

kezzb

Hi, I would like to buy a range cooker to replace my old single oven cooker. I realise that the wiring required is different for larger cookers. How do I know what amp the hard wiring is in my flat? Wiring was done in late 1960s I reckon but have a newish fusebox.

Not intending to install the cooker myself, I will pay a qualified electrician, but wondering if I am going to have to pay a small fortune to get wiring changed?
Thanks

FreeBear

kezzb wrote: »

Not intending to install the cooker myself, I will pay a qualified electrician, but wondering if I am going to have to pay a small fortune to get wiring changed?

Look at your consumer unit - If the breaker on the cooker circuit is 32A, then that will (generally) be the limit of the cable. Depending on the distance between the consumer unit and the cooker, you could well have 6mm² cable. If your new range cooker requires a bigger supply, then the cable will have to be upgraded to 10mm² or larger.

I'm afraid that only a qualified electrician will be able to give you advice as it is dependent on the cooker requirements and the length of cable needed. If it is a short run and new cable can be pulled through easily, it needn't be hugely expensive.

kezzb

FreeBear wrote: »

Look at your consumer unit - If the breaker on the cooker circuit is 32A, then that will (generally) be the limit of the cable. Depending on the distance between the consumer unit and the cooker, you could well have 6mm² cable. If your new range cooker requires a bigger supply, then the cable will have to be upgraded to 10mm² or larger.

I'm afraid that only a qualified electrician will be able to give you advice as it is dependent on the cooker requirements and the length of cable needed. If it is a short run and new cable can be pulled through easily, it needn't be hugely expensive.

Sorry to be really thick but what is the consumer unit? Is it the plate that is on the wall with cooker switch on it?

Risteard

kezzb wrote: »

Sorry to be really thick but what is the consumer unit? Is it the plate that is on the wall with cooker switch on it?

It's the distribution board (DB), commonly known as the fuse board.

kezzb

Risteard wrote: »

It's the distribution board (DB), commonly known as the fuse board.

Found it and it says 30 amp, so I presume its 32 amp, Rangemaster website says its fine to run the cooker on a 32 amp circuit with 6mm cable as long as isolator switch does not incorporate a 13amp socket, mine does Am I scuppered? No idea id cable is 6mm or 10mm but most likely to be 6mm given the age of the wiring? The consumer unit is a long way from the kitchen.

tonyh66

kezzb wrote: »

Found it and it says 30 amp, so I presume its 32 amp, Rangemaster website says its fine to run the cooker on a 32 amp circuit with 6mm cable as long as isolator switch does not incorporate a 13amp socket, mine does Am I scuppered? No idea id cable is 6mm or 10mm but most likely to be 6mm given the age of the wiring? The consumer unit is a long way from the kitchen.

if it says 30A it's not 32A...

Ectophile

So get the cooker switch replaced with one that is just a switch, and doesn't have a 13A socket. Job done.

Unless, of course you really need the socket. In which case, it may be easier just to add a few more sockets to your ring main.

30A suggests it's a fuse, rather than a breaker. But for the circuit in question, the difference between a 30A fuse and a 32A breaker is negligible.