Removing Butinox

jennifernil

An old tin of Butinox, an oil based wood stain and preservative, has rusted and leaked onto the laminate worktop in our utility room, what can I use on the stain that will remove the mess completely?

Or is the only solution a new worktop?

It has been there for quite a while as it was hidden away in a corner behind other stuff.

I have tried white spirit, that helped to soften some of the thick bits and I was able to get some of it off with a plastic scraper. I have also tried nail varnish remover, but I am now left with several areas where the Butinox is a thin film and no more is coming off easily, and some thicker stubborn bits in a big ring just where the tin was sitting

To make matters worse, the worktop does not seem to be completely smooth, feels like it has a slightly textured surface.

Aylesbury_Duck

jennifernil wrote: »

An old tin of Butinox, an oil based wood stain and preservative, has rusted and leaked onto the laminate worktop in our utility room, what can I use on the stain that will remove the mess completely?

Or is the only solution a new worktop?

It has been there for quite a while as it was hidden away in a corner behind other stuff.

I have tried white spirit, that helped to soften some of the thick bits and I was able to get some of it off with a plastic scraper. I have also tried nail varnish remover, but I am now left with several areas where the Butinox is a thin film and no more is coming off easily, and some thicker stubborn bits in a big ring just where the tin was sitting

To make matters worse, the worktop does not seem to be completely smooth, feels like it has a slightly textured surface.

I suspect the surface has been irreparably damaged, given that it's texture has changed. The stain has reacted with the air and the surface, and possibly with the solvents you've attacked it with. It's also possible that one or both of the nail varnish remover and white spirit has reacted
with the surface - my guess would be that it's the white spirit that has done the damage.

In future, it's always a good idea to consult the manufacturer before attempting a DIY clean-up. Their contact details/helpline number are normally found on the tin. They will know what solvent will work on their product. Attacking anything like this without really knowing what will work risks making the situation worse. Sometimes, the solvent used can just "harden" the original spillage and make it more difficult to shift, other times it can do more damage than the leak itself. Once you've "contaminated" the original product by mixing it with something, the manufacturer might not be able to help because you may have chemically altered the product.

jennifernil

No, the surface has not changed, the worktop surface was originally slightly textured rather than completely smooth and shiney. The problem is that the Butinox is in the tiny little dimpled bits, for want of a better explanation, and I am not reaching into those dimpled bits with my plastic scraper so removal is patchy.

The areas where I have been successful in removal look no different to the other unmarked areas of the worktop.

I think the fact it sat there unnoticed and dried out is a large part of the problem.

After trying the white spirit, I cleaned the worktop with washing up liquid and hot water before trying the nail varnish remover, so I do not think the two will have reacted with each other either.

Plenty advice on the tin about cleaning brushes, getting the stuff of skin, windows and clothes, but they obviously do not expect you to be letting it leak onto a worktop and set solid!

Aylesbury_Duck

I see. Perhaps some form of stipple brush, to work into the texture then? Make sure it's a plastic brush and not a wire one.

Does the advice tell you what solvent to use, e.g. warm, soapy water? Whatever they recommend, you may need to let it soak into the depressions before brushing.

jennifernil

They only mention white spirit, turps and brush cleaner.