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Anyone Know Peugeot 106 Brake Pipe Union Size?

Retrogamer
Posts: 4,218 Forumite


in Motoring
In true moneysaving sense my dad has got his friend to replace the worn out bearings in the rear beam of his Peugeot 106.
Unfortunatily he discovered a heavily corroded brake pipe that broke off when it was given a pull. Glad that was noticed though!
My dad's friend has a machine to shape brake pipes and he has the copper tubing as well, but unfortunately the unions in his kit are not the same size as the Peugeot fitment.
I've searched online for a bit and can't seem to find out the definite size of the brake pipe unions so i can get some new ones to put onto the new pipe. Does anyone hear have any ideas?
Thought i'd ask as i know we have a few in the motor trade posting here.
Many thanks.
Unfortunatily he discovered a heavily corroded brake pipe that broke off when it was given a pull. Glad that was noticed though!
My dad's friend has a machine to shape brake pipes and he has the copper tubing as well, but unfortunately the unions in his kit are not the same size as the Peugeot fitment.
I've searched online for a bit and can't seem to find out the definite size of the brake pipe unions so i can get some new ones to put onto the new pipe. Does anyone hear have any ideas?
Thought i'd ask as i know we have a few in the motor trade posting here.
Many thanks.
All your base are belong to us.
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Comments
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M10x1.0 - the usual metric size. I suspect your dad's mate only had old imperial unions. Did they almost fit in the cylinder thread?
The pipe is the same size for both, so no problem there. It IS cupro-nickel, rather than pure copper, right?0 -
M10x1.0 - the usual metric size. I suspect your dad's mate only had old imperial unions. Did they almost fit in the cylinder thread?
The pipe is the same size for both, so no problem there. It IS cupro-nickel, rather than pure copper, right?
I'm not sure on the material, personally as i've not seen his piping but he's old school and just mentioned "copper brake pipes"
The unions he had were way too small so no idea what he had. M10x1.0 unions seem cheap as chips as well. Thanks!All your base are belong to us.0 -
Pure copper work-hardens very easily. Shouldn't be a problem if it's just the short rear arm pipes that you're doing now, from flexi to wheel cylinder.0
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That's the ones. Turns out it needs flexi pipes as well and the rear beam can't be saved as the areas the bearing seats in are too badly corroded.All your base are belong to us.0
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Retrogamer wrote: »That's the ones. Turns out it needs flexi pipes as well and the rear beam can't be saved as the areas the bearing seats in are too badly corroded.0
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That's the same as this and why despite the odd camber, it kept passing the MOT. The whole bearing had seized so it prevented any free play. £200 delivered for a reconditioned one isn't the worst i guessAll your base are belong to us.0
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Back to this.
We ended up buying brand new brake pipes from eBay due to problems with the brake crimping tool.
£22 delivered, nickel plated steel and already shaped etc.
Same size M10 unions at both ends
Unfortunatily it appears the wheel cylinders use an M12 connector as the M10 just falls inside as it's the wrong size.
So now stuck with a 106 on someone's ramps until we can source either other wheel cylinders or pipes....
No idea why the pipes came with M10 ends if the wheel cylinders are much larger.All your base are belong to us.0
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