Drip from WC

kah22

I have a very slight leak in my WC just where the inlet pipe and the WC join. The inlet pipe is plastic. From appearance it looks as though the problem is been caused by a weak washer

The leak appears to have been there for quite some time but because it was so small and behind the bowl wasn't spotted until I noticed the wall directly below it beginning to get damp.

I drained and dried the offending joint and applied some PVC ADHESIVE from a tube the sort applied with a gun. It was applied to a totally dry area but a slight leak remains and I'm assuming it was mainly because I couldn't get my hands in around all parts of the joint

Before calling in a plumber I'm wondering if there is anything else I can try. There appear to be some spray on sealants and I'm wondering if they are any good? A quick look at Google would also suggest that there are some paint on products

I'm wondering if any of these could be used as a permanent fix something like THIS feel free to point me to a producet or is a matter of call the plumber

Wookey

Take a photo of it and upload it please.

kah22

Thanks for the reply. I've attached two images: one from inside the tank and the other from underneath the tank. Sorry it's the best I can, can't figure out how to make the image smaller. The leak is occurring at this point

[IMG][/img]

Tom99

You seem to be missing the washer and nut. If that the case I don't think you will ever get a watertight joint

nofoollikeold

Assuming the washer and nut are under all that sealant, then:

1. Turn off water.
2. Clean off all sealant from outside.
3. Undo pipe connection.
4. Unscrew securing nut on outside and remove inlet valve.
5. Clean off all sealant from inside flange on inlet valve.
6. Check rubber washer. If OK, re-use, else replace or replace entire valve.
7. Thoroughly clean inside and outside of cistern around inlet valve hole, including removing any limescale.
8. Re-install (or install new) inlet valve. If rubber washer is cone shaped, smaller side down into hole.
9. Do nut up on threaded shank on outside. Finger tight, then about 1/2 turn with a spanner.
10. Re-connect pipe.
11. Turn water back on.

Personally, I would have little faith in the product you suggest.

flashg67

I know this is MSE, but for the cost, it might be worth just getting a new inlet valve which will have all new fittings too. I prefer the ones with a brass stem.
By the time you've tried loads of different sealers etc, you'll probably have spent the same!

kah22

Points taken and thanks to all
Kevin

patman99

Go for a new inlet valve assembly. Easy to fit once you have cleaned off all the sealant.