Caliper bolt seized

facade

The pointy end seals in the pip at the bottom of the hole.
With an iron calliper, you would have had to recut the seat when you drilled for the helicoil, but an alloy calliper will distort a little and make a new seat.
The threads dry out, which is why you normally put a smear of copaslip on them.

Just take the nipple out and cut the spare helicoil off with a dremmel type tool to neaten it up.

stranger12

How do you recut the seal or base?

Can I aluminum weld it and re drill?

Robisere

This is probably why OP has to search for a cheaper solution:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mitsubishi-Evo-6-7-8-9-Front-Brembo-Calipers-Refurbished-with-New-Genuine-Seals-/111067552215

I dread to think what they cost new. That is the main drawback to buying an exotic piece of machinery like the Evo8, but by the time you finish buying bits and bobs, that's money you could have put towards a long term solution. If you want to keep the car, that is.

facade

stranger12 wrote: »

How do you recut the seal or base?

Can I aluminum weld it and re drill?

The seat should be fine unless you drilled down too far for the helicoil. If the angle is slightly skewed the steel nipple will form its own seat when you tighten it.

stranger12

Caliper dismantelled , getting a 100 liter conpressor tomorrow to sand blast it and paint again.

My 24 liters is way too weak

How would you go about leaving the brake line hanging and avoid fluid being drawn out by gravity while working on caliper?

I don't want to kink it or bend it, i was thinking a bonjo bolt perhaps with nut

Richard53

stranger12 wrote: »

How would you go about leaving the brake line hanging and avoid fluid being drawn out by gravity while working on caliper?

I don't want to kink it or bend it, i was thinking a bonjo bolt perhaps with nut

If you have to ask something as basic as this, you should not be working on the brakes of any vehicle.