Solid wood versus engineered wood - advice

littlerock

Need to inform myself of relative merits of solid versus engineered wood for new hall floor (currently have carpeted original pine wood floor but lots of gaps between planks and planning new wood flooron top and rugs).

I know nothing about this area at all. Do I buy the wood on line and hire someone else to lay it or do I go round to the local carpet shop and get a package deal? What makes one type or make more expensive than another type?

samogotchi

Engineered wood is a more consistent product - it is essentially a plywood with a thick piece of hardwood attached to the top. It's cheaper in general because wood, particularly if it's large and flat, is expensive. Engineered wood takes some of that expense away by having a nice piece of wood on top, and having a cheaper bit below.

Solid wood is also harder to fit, particularly when inexperienced - wood behaves in different ways depending on climate, and you need someone who knows how that works and can take into account expansion/contraction.

Expense will be thickness of board, thickness of the non-engineered portion, and type of wood - if you're talking walnut, etc, then it's going to be expensive. A thicker piece of hard wood on the top of engineered wood can be sanded back and refinished, if it gets scuffed so will have a bit more longevity.

Whilst I love solid wood, I would be careful, get someone experienced to fit it, and be prepared for a high cost.

Silvertabby

We've recently had engineered oak flooring fitted.

If you go down that route, then you need to chose one with a good layer of hardwood - ours is 6mm.

We bought ours from a local timber supplier, who had a list of 'recommended fitters' for us to choose from - but we had already seen a neighbours new flooring and used her fitter.

Don't skimp on the fitter - if they try to tell you that they can cut corners (sorry, cut the cost!) by working round your original skirting boards, then run a mile. The only way to do it is to remove the skirting and replace it (usually with new boards) on top of the flooring.

Hong_Kong_Phooey.

samogotchi wrote: »

Engineered wood is a more consistent product - it is essentially a plywood with a thick piece of hardwood attached to the top. It's cheaper in general because wood, particularly if it's large and flat, is expensive. Engineered wood takes some of that expense away by having a nice piece of wood on top, and having a cheaper bit below.

Solid wood is also harder to fit, particularly when inexperienced - wood behaves in different ways depending on climate, and you need someone who knows how that works and can take into account expansion/contraction.

Expense will be thickness of board, thickness of the non-engineered portion, and type of wood - if you're talking walnut, etc, then it's going to be expensive. A thicker piece of hard wood on the top of engineered wood can be sanded back and refinished, if it gets scuffed so will have a bit more longevity.

Whilst I love solid wood, I would be careful, get someone experienced to fit it, and be prepared for a high cost.

Solid wood is no harder to fit than engineered, engineered wood is also liable to expand and contract too.

Hong_Kong_Phooey.

Silvertabby wrote: »

We've recently had engineered oak flooring fitted.

If you go down that route, then you need to chose one with a good layer of hardwood - ours is 6mm.

We bought ours from a local timber supplier, who had a list of 'recommended fitters' for us to choose from - but we had already seen a neighbours new flooring and used her fitter.

Don't skimp on the fitter - if they try to tell you that they can cut corners (sorry, cut the cost!) by working round your original skirting boards, then run a mile. The only way to do it is to remove the skirting and replace it (usually with new boards) on top of the flooring.

You've never heard of undercutting with a multitool?

Silvertabby

You've never heard of undercutting with a multitool?

He worked round the door architraves with that. Engineered flooring, however, has to be fitted with a bit of 'flex room' - ie, fitted with a small gap between the board and the wall, which is then covered by the new skirting.

Hong_Kong_Phooey.

Silvertabby wrote: »

He worked round the door architraves with that. Engineered flooring, however, has to be fitted with a bit of 'flex room'-ie, fitted with a small gap between the board and the wall, which is then covered by the new skirting.

You mean an expansion gap.

So you do realise it's not necessary to remove the skirting?

Silvertabby

“

He worked round the door architraves with that. Engineered flooring, however, has to be fitted with a bit of 'flex room'-ie, fitted with a small gap between the board and the wall, which is then covered by the new skirting.
Originally posted by Silvertabby ”

You mean an expansion gap.

So you do realise it's not necessary to remove the skirting?

Horses for courses, but I prefer to pay the extra to have a job done properly.

I've seen engineered flooring fitted into a cut into the existing skirting, but the finish is nowhere near as neat as ours.

P.S. Our flooring is about 20mm thick (of which 6mm is the solid oak veneer). That would be some undercut !

littlerock

thanks everyone

littlerock

One more question. Our current floor is wooden boards, on joists. the plan is to lay the new floor on top but we should like to add under flooring insulation at the same time. Would mineral wool work?