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Clearing an neglected garden
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Does it need to be bark or would woodchip do? You may get a tipper load from tree surgeons for nothing.0
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glasgowdan wrote: »Does it need to be bark or would woodchip do? You may get a tipper load from tree surgeons for nothing.
After a bit of surfing I’m now wondering if a membrane is needed.
Thanks Dan, I’ll enquire about woodchip, will it be as easy to walk over and last as long as bark?0 -
Yes it just looks a bit different, and it tends to be smaller pieces so may rot down quicker in the long run. I like it personally.0
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I!!!8217;m going to start small and I!!!8217;m going to try using a seaweed bed for potatoes.
Ooh yes! The reason Jersey Royals tend not to have such a good taste these days is that few growers now use vraic (and I suspect those get kept in Jersey or for selected customers). I'm not sure what varieties you'd use up there (Arran summat or other?) but I'm sure they'll taste great.
Do you know any joiners? I've had around 4 dustbins in volume of oak sawdust from my neighbour, which I've used for making firelighters and mixing on the compost heap as the brown element.
If you suffer from my problem you'll soon need a trip to the pub for their slops: this wet 'spring' the slugs have been worse than usual and scores have come to a tipsy end in my beer traps. I think the neighbours are also used to the nightime prowlings of me with a torch!
Beeze your garden up for a photy an a', we want to see it with the sun out!0 -
I'm particularly fond of Ratte potatoes. Missed Potato Day this year so haven't got a selection.
My question of the day is does the garden need membrane before bark / wood chip? Is a belt and braces approach too much? Will bark / wood chip be just as effective?
Oh, sorry. That's three questions!0 -
For land you are not using, woven polypropylene is stronger than spun. It lasts at least 5 years, and probably closer to 10 if not subject to heavy traffic. It lets water and air through, but not weeds.
I mean something like this . There are lots of sources and this is not necessarily cheapest:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Yuzet-09-001002-01-00-Control-Membrane-Landscape/dp/B006H1MBR6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1523349166&sr=8-6&keywords=weed+fabric
You can cover this stuff with bark for appearance, but you don't have to. I just move mine around in the veg garden year to year.
You can also put bark/woodchip etc direct onto the soil surface. A thick layer will suppress weeds but not as effectively as the weed membrane. It'll eventually rot down and improve soil, but we're talking years.
Fresh woodchip will take some nitrogen from the soil, but I understand it doesn't matter too much in the open garden where there's plenty of soil. Putting it into any potting compost mix is a no-no though. Only composted bark can be used for that.0 -
Thanks for the advice!
There will only be raised beds on this land as the ground is far too soggy for growing and even walking on well.
I'll explore the notion of membrane a bit more before deciding. Ten years is probably long enough to keep me happy.
It's exciting to get this long neglected plot back into some kind of use again and enjoy it.0 -
Some people plant through membrane, but I'd find that odd for anything other than something big, like courgettes. I suspect they use the thinner, spun stuff which cuts easier, but doesn't last as long.
I just use mine to cover areas I'm not using, or standing-out areas, because I have a small nursery bit with trays full of pots.
Best mulch I've ever had is miscanthus bedding from a stable. Old lady didn't clear it for years and I ended-up with many tonnes of it when she went to the great stable in the sky!0 -
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