Unused hot water outlet for washing machine

esuhl

I'm going to be getting a new washing machine soon. My current one has both hot and cold water inlets, but all the new ones I've seen only have a cold water inlet.

What do I do with the unused hot water pipe? It has a small 1/4-turn tap, so I can turn off the water. But it's directly behind the washing machine, so I won't know if it ever starts dripping.

Do I need to get a plumber to properly seal it off? Is this something I could do myself?

Cheers all! :-)

London50

The 1/4 turn valve once turned to the off position will not leak so do not worry about that. We have had the same set up for over 15 years since we got our new cold fill machine and never had a problem.
If you are so worried just go to Wickes and buy a 15mm copper blanking cap, turn off your hot water valve then remove the 1/4 turn valve and put on the blanking cap {start to finish about a 15/20 min job that if you have the tools} but it will be just as easy to just turn the valve to the off position as it will do the same job :0)

Jonesya

I wouldn't remove the valve, that's a lot of work, just switch it off and fit a screw-on cap that screws onto the fitting in place of the hose, to seal the water outlet and prevent it leaking if someone opens it, or the valve passes - they cost just over a quid.

You just need a spanner to tighten it on.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bsp-blank-nut-x/39553

Alex1983

You should cut it back as close to the main pipe as you can, you will leave a dead leg which could cause future problems.

esuhl

Jonesya wrote: »

I wouldn't remove the valve, that's a lot of work, just switch it off and fit a screw-on cap that screws onto the fitting in place of the hose, to seal the water outlet and prevent it leaking if someone opens it, or the valve passes - they cost just over a quid.

You just need a spanner to tighten it on.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bsp-blank-nut-x/39553

Oh! That sounds like a good idea! And dead cheap and easy too. :beer:

Cheers, everyone.

dggar

Alex1983 wrote: »

You should cut it back as close to the main pipe as you can, you will leave a dead leg which could cause future problems.

Could you elaborate, what sort of problems do you think could happen?

FreeBear

Jonesya wrote: »

just switch it off and fit a screw-on cap that screws onto the fitting in place of the hose, to seal the water outlet and prevent it leaking if someone opens it, or the valve passes

Also worth fitting a rubber washer in there - You won't need to cram the cap on to seal it then.

EachPenny

esuhl wrote: »

Oh! That sounds like a good idea! And dead cheap and easy too.

Even cheaper and easier -
1) Remove the hot water hose from the tap and washing machine.
2) Very carefully cut the hose - garden secateurs are a good choice of tool if you have them
3) Remove the plastic 'nuts' from each end of the hose.
4) Place a 20p coin 'inside' one of the nuts, which should have a rubber washer in it already, and screw back onto the tap.

Keep the spare nut in case you ever need to do the same thing again.

It costs nothing as you still have the 20p You also won't need the spanner

Don't worry about ruining the hose, most appliances are supplied with one, and they recommend you don't re-use old hoses with new appliances.

Alex1983

dggar wrote: »

Could you elaborate, what sort of problems do you think could happen?

Google hot water dead leg, it could breed bacteria, worse case legionnaires.

esuhl

Alex1983 wrote: »

Google hot water dead leg, it could breed bacteria, worse case legionnaires.

Oh -- I hadn't thought about that. :eek:

There will be a ~160mm dead leg. The pipe is 15mm diameter. And apparently the guidelines say the maximum dead leg length should be six times the diameter (i.e. 90mm).

It looks like I should be able to replace the T-junction with an elbow. I think this is what I'll need, right?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/p801-05-elbow-15-x-15mm-2-pack/91568

Probably a daft question, but how tightly do you need to tighten the nuts? With-all-your-might, or just-about-snug...?

Sam_Fallow

esuhl wrote: »

Probably a daft question, but how tightly do you need to tighten the nuts? With-all-your-might, or just-about-snug...?

In between a quarter turn past where it still leaks and a quarter turn short of where it strips the thread.