faulty wiring to meter who is responsible?

societys_child

A dangerous on/off switch?:eek:

Chrysalis

EachPenny wrote: »

First off, don't touch that switch if it is marked as dangerous :eek: It may also turn off the power to the whole building which may make you very unpopular.

The main switch I was talking about should be on the consumer unit/fusebox. Could you post a picture of it so we can see and identify where it is for you?

If the meter is that remote from your consumer unit there is plenty of scope for something 'odd' to be happening inbetween!

molerat makes a good point that you may be looking at the wrong meter. The obvious thing would be to repeat your switching off method and see if one of the other meters stops. The fact your bill and the number on the meter match doesn't mean your supply is actually coming from that meter.

There is 3 of such switchies one for each meter, but yes I wont touch it.

I will get you a pic of the fuse box, but all of them were flipped off on my test so its not like I accidentally missed it.

Good idea to see if another meter stops moving I didnt think of that, thanks. I will also test with a electric 1kw heater turned on and watch the flashing lights.

If I were to sign up for a smart meter, do you reckon I could ask for it to be placed much closer to me e.g. next to the fusebox?

molerat

Chrysalis wrote: »

It has a sticker of flat 1 above it (my flat) and the meter number matches what I been given.

I suppose the proper test would be to flip the on/off for it and see if it turns my flat off, but it is labeled as dangerous.

Most isolator switches are marked "danger" because poking around and taking the covers of is dangerous. I assume this one fits between the meter and your fusebox so will be safe to turn off, that is what it is designed for, it means you don't have to call out the supply company to pull the main fuse when you want to work on your fuse box.

Chrysalis

ok here is the pic, its the best I could do sorry as its high up.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7P3Ne0hzKcGbTNxSzlJVmlvMzQ/view?usp=sharing

labels say from left to right

green - sockets shower
red - lights lights immersion cooker "main switch"

EachPenny

Chrysalis wrote: »

ok here is the pic, its the best I could do sorry as its high up.

labels say from left to right

green - sockets shower
red - lights lights immersion cooker "main switch"

It would be the main switch on the right-hand side which should cut everything off - if it has been wired in correctly.

However, the fact there appears to be a hole on the left-hand side suggests all is not well with the electrical installation - did you get to see an electrical safety certificate when you moved in?

I don't think a smart meter will help you in any way, it may make the situation worse. About the only benefit would be being able to see your consumption without having to go to the meter.

Chrysalis

No I didnt, thats also something I have noted, thanks.

dogshome

Don't worry about the hole in the Consumer Unit, it's a standard box that is designed to house more Trip Fuses than you require - Hence the hole.

Beginning to look more and more like a mis-identified meter problem, ( All too common in flats ), do the 'all off' burn test with a mate in the flat with a mobile switching the kettle On/Off whilst you watch the meter.

Do it several times and take notes of the meters behaviour, if the meter proves not to be yours WRITE to your supplier reporting your findings, they should respond by an engineers visit to confirm your findings.

With just 3 meters it's possible that you can identify which is your meter during the burn tests, but as these will be in use proof positive is difficult - If you want to harden up your evidence, do the test in the wee small hours when the other 2 meters are unlikely to be in use.

EachPenny

dogshome wrote: »

Don't worry about the hole in the Consumer Unit, it's a standard box that is designed to house more Trip Fuses than you require - Hence the hole.

Sorry, but that is bad advice.

Consumer unit enclosures are made in standard sizes and good practice would be to install a slightly larger size than needed to allow some spare capacity for future modifications.

However, the spare ways should always be blanked off, there should never be a hole left which someone could stick a finger or other object into and receive a shock.

The hole could indicate various things, but amongst them:

1) The CU installer was willing to take shortcuts, blanks cost pennies (if not supplied with the enclosure) and take seconds to fit. An installer who doesn't bother to blank off all spare ways could have taken all kinds of other short cuts - including not fitting the busbar shield, taking a final circuit from the main switch feed, or tapping into the OP's meter tails to supply something else.

2) Something might have been occupying the two spare ways and has been removed. In which case what, and what alternative arrangements have been made? A competent electrician would not have left unblanked ways while doing a modification. In which case you have to assume the potential for an incompetent modification to the installation.

Whatever the reason, that hole alone is enough for me not to want to advise the OP to do anything themselves and instead (if the landlord won't do it) get a professional electrician to come in and investigate.

Safety first.

AndyPK

The switch at the right of your CU is the main switch (with the double red leaver). which should turn everything off.

With the white digital meters, when everything is off, and no power being drawn a red light should come on after a while. This is slightly easier than you turning it off for ages and seeing if the digits increase

[Deleted User]

Just switch off the isolation switch next to the meter. If your meter still goes round then you have problems. Also if your electric in your flat goes off after switching off the switch next to meter then you'll know that it definitely is your meter as per your flat number.

Other than that it sounds like something is wired up between your meter and fuse box.