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Composite decking - yes or no
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Some photos would be useful, and close ups of the scratched up samples.
https://imgur.com is good and easy to use.0 -
Hi - very helpful thread as I'm looking into some new decking myself. Any further updates after install?0
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Has anyone got any further updates on their composite decking projects/experiences? We are in a similar quandary.....
kind regards0 -
Selco have composite decking on offer this week0
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Having problems with Dino Decking composite deck. Only had it two months and it’s covered in stains that do not wash off as they suggest. I want a refund but they have a ‘stain get out clause’. I read that as accidental spills like wine or oil and not leaves and garden foliage etc. I believe we must have a manufacturing fault but they are digging their heals in. I’m happy for them to come and see it and take a sample. Something is very wrong with it.0
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What I Learned About Composite Decks
In no particular order:
Composite wants straight joists; it is not as forgiving as wood. Irregularities will show. Shimming may still be necessary. 5ft. levels were used to check the plane.
Apply butyl tape (aka: “bitchathane”) to tops of all joists. Paint all bare wood.
Get yourself an impact driver for removal of old screws.
16” joist centers are acceptable, but 12” is preferred. Blocking perpendicular to the joists is recommended every 4ft. - if for no other reason than to have something to brace against when pushing with clamps <grin>.
Joists must be solid wood, repair rot in many ways: liquid hardener, “Dutchman,” replace with new, or sister.
TimberTeck specifications call for double joist or double blocking (sistering) wherever a butt joint is because of fastener positioning requirements. To do over again, I’d reconsider screwing in “L” brackets underneath or the Fibron clip system.
Screws pull the planks down firmly. If screwing down through the plank (e.g. Cortex), pre-drilling will help with questionable wood (i.e. rot). All ends must be pre-drilled to avoid chance of splitting.
If Cortex screw doesn’t go deep enough, then plug bottom must be shaved down to prevent bottoming out. Plugs are more noticeable not because of poor color match, but rather when they are not flush. To remove a plug, center punch, use a slightly smaller diameter drill at super slow speed and it’ll lift right out.
Assume composite planks as not reusable if screwing them in through the face. The composite encloses slightly around the head, preventing it from rising back up. Force lifting will crack the plank across the screw holes. With hidden fasteners, there is a better chance of reusing the plank.
The majority of this job was using CONCEALoc Hidden Fastener.
The CONCEALoc Hidden Fastener screw heads were non-forgiving, i.e. soft metal. You get one chance or the head strips. The clips’ tabs might need aligning up or down to fit plank’s groove.
Hidden fasteners are not as simple to use as the videos portray. Bar and pipe clamps were used to pull/push the plank into the proper gap. And then a good whack with a heavy hammer onto scrap wood to set the plank.
The crew noted that the TimberTech was cooler to handle than Trex on hot days. We used TimberTeck Pro, Reserve Collection “Antique Leather.” Cortex offers a matching plug. Antique Leather has varying colors running through it, so take your time matching the plugs. Again, the most important thing to make the plugs “disappear” is making them flush (use a plastic head hammer).
Butt gaps vary with temperature. At over 90°F. the gap utilized was a tight 1/16”. We actually notice the expansion and contraction as the temperature changes.
Carry composite planks over 16ft. vertical on edge.
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Hi
Hi all. After a bit of research I asked for a sample of composite decking from Oakio and I'm really impressed. I can't seem to scratch them and they seem very well-made. It's variegated - which apparently means they use more than one colour to give a deep wood-grain pattern. Whatever they call it, the wood grain pattern looks almost 3D! They are double-sided, with deep grooves on the other side to the wood grain affect. So you have two design options. I don't know if this is important, but I was pleasantly surprised at how heavy they are, compared to samples I received from other companies - which seemed a bit cheap and flimsy to me. I suppose it's like most things, you get what you pay for. (Buy cheap - pay twice as my other half always says!) Anyhow, just to share - the Oakio samples are the best ones I've had by far - it's the Smokey White I have. Very likely I will be going with that one as it will suit the colour scheme of my house perfectly. Very excited.0 -
We used NeoTimber, as out of all the samples we received, they seemed to provide the best samples, the hollowed out holes are round so there is more material compared to others we looked at with huge squares cut out.
The service we received was exceptional, very little maintenance, just simply have to use soapy water once a year, wasn't priced too high compared to others either and although there was delivery costs, we have always felt that when paying out for a luxury product delivery costs come hand in hand with that and whats £100 more. Really happy with our deck and looking forward to enjoying summer on it this year.-3 -
Nice spamming Maisy.0
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This thread is very helpful!The ‘garden’ of my tiny terraced house has only 5x5m decking. Next door is huge conker tree (preservation order on it) that drops things year round, makes my decking damp. Decking laid in 2013. It’s now spongy, shredding in places.Landscaper recommended Millboard, which is too expensive for me. Trex has good reviews. Anyone used it? Wonder about scratches, fading, slippery factor?0
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