peugeot 307 electrical issues

dingends

eset12345 wrote: »

checked on their map and the closest guy is about 70 miles away.

may just book it in to peugeot dealer for a look in that case.

I see you can buy the diagnosic kit on ebay for less than £100, but I haven't got the first idea how to use it, i've only had those little code scanners before, and it may just be chucking good money after bad.

if you buy one make sure you buy the "right" one - the one with the full chip. Some Lexia cables don`t work on the 307 so make sure you buy a full chip one. Have a browse on the web there are sources where you get a better price, mine came from Singapore with DHL within 3 days, £60.

Also please consider for Peugeot Planet you will need a laptop with windows XP on it as it won`t run on anything above - virtualbox works sometimes and sometimes not. Alternative would be Diagbox - runs on windows 7.
If you need help with setup and how to use it give me a shout or come over to the peugeot forum.

prosaver

i had a peugout 307 and when i bought it a few weeks later I noticed that someone painted over the engine management light that was always on.
plus the abs brake light warning still on too.
I just dont drive in snow
horrible heavy cars,

Strider590

If you have the radio code, it would definitely be worth disconnecting the battery over night to see if that resets things.

Rain_Shadow

prosaver wrote: »

i had a peugout 307 and when i bought it a few weeks later I noticed that someone painted over the engine management light that was always on.
plus the abs brake light warning still on too.
I just dont drive in snow
horrible heavy cars,

My son has one that I drive regularly while he is away from home. I find it a light and thoroughly pleasant car to drive.

eset12345

Strider590 wrote: »

If you have the radio code, it would definitely be worth disconnecting the battery over night to see if that resets things.

tried doing the whole BSI reset thing and no difference.

but have been tinkering around today trying a few things before I buy a 2nd hand bsi unit / ECU / lockset and got the Air con / blower working.

tested the handbrake switch for continuity and it works when pressed so that's not the problem, checked the voltage at the live wire going in to it and its very low, like less than 1v, not sure if this is normal or not, but I would have expected 12v or 5V through it, no?

so the issues are basically the front / rear sidelights staying on, the wipers not parking correctly / not working correctly, and the handbrake light staying on, and all these things go through the BSI I think, well the lights / wipers first go through the comms200 unit below the steering wheel, but that going would affect other things like indicators and main / dipped beam maybe the horn etc which all work

so the smoke is nothing do with the blower motor, which only leaves the glove box fusebox / BSI as the source of the smoke that burnt something out internally, because all the wiring and plugs around there seem fine.

I think i'll just get the used bsi kit and swap it in, its only £60 odd.

eset12345

well issues sorted.

faulty BSI unit.

fitted a used ecu / BSI set, exact same model ECU and cured all the problems.

lights turn off now, wipers work correctly and the handbrake warning now turns off when handbrake released - so all BSI related

but picked up a couple of new faults, presumably from the used BSI.

Says drivers door its open when it's not, dash warning and flashing interior light - this goes off when you press the light button, but will come on again, if you stop then move off again.

doors lock by themselves as soon as they are closed, whether in the car or not, ignition / engine on or not, a bit of a problem because the key can easily be locked in the car, if you get out and door closes behind you.

all these worked with the old unit, so the parts on the actual car aren't faulty, so the sensors on the door and central locking bits are clearly ok.

nothing major, but enough to fail an mot, which is due :mad:

is this a fault in the BSI or is it something that needs to be programmed / changed using diagnostics? could be caused by a remaining fault code on the 'new' ECU? will doing diagnostics clean this up?

m_c

BSI's need to be coded to the vehicle, so the problems you're now experiencing are most likely down to the unit not being coded correctly for your vehicle.

eset12345

m_c wrote: »

BSI's need to be coded to the vehicle, so the problems you're now experiencing are most likely down to the unit not being coded correctly for your vehicle.

when you replace the BSI you also replace the ECU, so it's essentially coded already, because as far as the ECU and BSI knows its in the original car