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Horn problem

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  • Wig
    Wig Posts: 14,139 Forumite
    edited 6 March 2017 at 8:33PM
    Hi,

    OK update, I did edit post #8 but some of you may not have noticed that.

    I have gone back to the relay chasing this 12v. The 12v is present at the 86 terminal on the relay.

    I bridged the relay and the horn sounded, so horn is OK.

    If I can bridge the wiring plug on the "relay side" of the steering wheel the black plug in the video that plugs into the rotary coupler, I should hear a beep. But like I said earlier the holes are very small, so might try from the back of the plug,

    EDIT UPDATE: FINALLY SOLVED
    OK, I got a beep when I bridged the plug unplugged. - I used two thin sewing needles in the holes.

    When the plug is plugged in to the rotary coupler..... I get no beep with a bridge on the other side of the coupler.

    It is obviously the coupler.

    Can someone explain in more detail the process of repairing the coupler either for new or scrap yard..?

    Confusion seems to be some people are calling the coupler "The Squib", I thought "the Squib" was the black metal bit on the back of the airbag that the yellow and blue plug plugs into, like an explosive "squib" to set the airbag off. There's nothing explosive and therefore nothing "Squib" like about the coupler so why call it a squib?

    Thanks
  • facade
    facade Posts: 7,580 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Wig wrote: »

    Can someone explain in more detail the process of repairing the coupler either for new or scrap yard..?

    Thanks
    Jack the front up
    Set the roadwheels straight ahead.
    Count how many times the steering wheel goes around when you turn it anticlockwise, probably 1 1/2.
    Turn the wheels back to dead straight, lower the jack so nothing can move, and remove the wheel and old coupler.
    There should be two arrows marked on it that line up.
    If the old coupler isn't completely broken, gently turn it anticlockwise until it stops, counting the turns as you go. (probably an extra half turn to full turn than the steering wheel moves)

    Then take the new one, and gently turn it anticlockwise until it stops, then turn it back the same number of turns as you measured off the old one to line up the marks again, then refit the wheel.

    Job done!!

    If it is completely broken, so it wont stop turning

    Get the new coupler and turn the middle gently anticlockwise until it stops. Turn it back the same amount as the steering wheel moves, then carry on until the next time the arrows line up.

    You want it to have about half a turn of extra movement over the steering wheel so it doesn't hit the end stops or snap off.


    Otherwise, you will need to get access to a haynes manual, cd manual, or ask on a vauxhall forum for exactly how far to turn it and which way.
    I want to go back to The Olden Days, when every single thing that I can think of was better.....

    (except air quality and Medical Science ;))
  • facade
    facade Posts: 7,580 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 6 March 2017 at 6:19PM
    DOH!!!!

    Look at eBay item 172550501573, zoom the picture.

    The coupler has the centralising instructions printed on it!!!!

    EDIT item 142170967114 is the correct one, but still the same.

    Centralise the roadwheels, turn the coupler anticlockwise until it stops, then clockwise 2 1/2 turns to line up the arrow marks, then refit


    DON'T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND WAIT FIRST, you don't want the airbag to go off in your face!
    I want to go back to The Olden Days, when every single thing that I can think of was better.....

    (except air quality and Medical Science ;))
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