We'd like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum... Read More »
Hardwood flooring

ERICS_MUM
Posts: 3,579 Forumite


My carpets need replacing and I'm thinking of installing hardwood in the downstairs rooms.
Does anyone who has done this have any advice re good/poor brands, engineered wood, fitting, durability or other problems.
This is a bit vague but I just don't know where to start so any advice will be gratefully received.
Thanks
Does anyone who has done this have any advice re good/poor brands, engineered wood, fitting, durability or other problems.
This is a bit vague but I just don't know where to start so any advice will be gratefully received.
Thanks
0
Comments
-
Engineered flooring is probably easiest because being stable, you can normally install as a floating floor.
Solid hardwood flooring needs more fixing because it moves with the seasons and moisture levels, so needs more thinking about the sub-floor and how you can fix it down. Either to the existing sub floor, or using the various products available for floating solid floors. Typical methods are blind nailing, or screwing to a wooden sub floor, or to battens fixed to a concrete sub floor.0 -
Same situation as you - we have recently decided to change from carpet to wood for the hall, lounge and dining room.
A near neighbour had this done a while ago, and was able to recommend the flooring suppliers and the fitter (fitter doesn't work for the flooring supplier, but was on their list of 'recommended fitters' - I think this is fairly normal for the trade).
We went for engineered oak. You've probably already noticed that there's a huge choice out there - but if you are anything like us you'll want quality rather than the cheapest price. We bought ours from a local timber firm, and went mid-upper range - the thing to look out for is the real wood 'veneer' on top of the base, which can range from just 2mm to over 6mm. We went for 6mm, which gives the option of sanding and re-oiling in the even of any future dramas!
Like any flooring, it'll only be as good as the fitter. If yours says he'll do it without removing and replacing the skirting boards, walk away. The wood needs room to expand slightly, so it should be fitted with a small gap at the edges, which is covered by the new skirting boards. You can get skirting to match the floor, but we're having simple white to match the rest of the house - that option turned out to be cheaper than you'd expect.
Mr S, being Mr S, has done a lot of on-line research on this, but the decider was seeing our neighbours floor and her recommendation of the fitter. Good luck - and choose wisely!0 -
Do NOT put wood floor in kitchen/utility room/downstairs loo (as previous owner did to our house - 22mm solid oak no less!). Sinks, washing machines etc and wood do not go together well, incontinent puppies overnight even more of a problem, even a 4" belt sander did not remove that stain!0
-
If you go for floating engineered wood, bear in mind while it looks the same, it doesn't "feel" like a solid floor. We've got engineered and are basically happy with it, but if I could afford it and the sub-floor was suitable I'd prefer solid.0
-
I laid solid wood in bedrooms upstairs and when I bought the house, the downstairs was already all solid wood other than the living room. I really like it, and prefer it to the engineered and laminate types I laid in my old house. I'm lucky that despite some spills and a dishwasher leak, the flooring hasn't been damaged downstairs but as was said, I wouldn't lay choose to lay real wood in areas where water could damage it.
As others have said, good preparation is important. I put a good quality fibreboard underneath the floor upstairs and removed the skirting. It's a floating floor with the expansion gaps under the new skirting. I also bought the wood well in advance and laid it out in the rooms in question for a few days before starting so as to acclimatise it to the temperature and humidity of the house. I was also careful to leave it until warmer weather. One room in particular is quite large so the potential for expansion was significant. Laying it in warm conditions gave me confidence the gaps would be enough. I didn't replace the skirting until I'd observed the floor and expansion/contraction over a few weeks, either. I used a good quality PVA glue in a large container. Worked out much cheaper than the soppy little tubes of "specialist" adhesive sold in the DIY sheds. When you examine the composition, they are the same anyway.
I prefer the feel and warmth of real wood over engineered. It's a very subjective thing and I don't have hard evidence to say it is warmer, it just feels that way to me.0 -
Thanks everyone, you're being a great help. It's such a big step (weak pun not intended !).0
-
Honestly, I'd go for a high end laminate instead of I were you. We have oak flooring in the living room. It's beautiful, but you only have to drop the TV remote on it to dent it. With hindsight I'm not sure I'd have it.
The worst thing is I was warned about this before we got it, but I loved it so I told myself the marks would add character. They don't, they just annoy me! :rotfl:
I'm guessing from your username that you have kids, so it's even more likely to get scratched and dented if they're playing on it.0 -
dirty_magic wrote: »Honestly, I'd go for a high end laminate instead of I were you. We have oak flooring in the living room. It's beautiful, but you only have to drop the TV remote on it to dent it. With hindsight I'm not sure I'd have it.
I'm surprised at this - I have solid strip French oak and parquet cherry that has been down for 15 years now and it is in great condition despite having children playing, spillages, animals messing, furniture dragged (on sliders), heels etc on them over this time.
I prefer the solid woods for the feel and finish compared to the engineered and laminate I have upstairs.
I would recommend you take your time and be very choosy - the chap who put ours down really knew his stuff and comes back to sand and reseal them every few years. He also does all the local schools in the summer (which is a good sign imo0 -
I've had it all, laminate plastic rubbish, solid wood veneered cherry, solid oak engineered and solid "proper" planks. In my experience the solid engineered oak is the best although it does move over the years, but not enough to be a problem. My solid planks in the bedroom have moved so much that the tongue have not been large enough. We now need to move out and lift/ relay the damn thing.0
-
If you do go for wood you'll need one essential bit of kit - a sign for the front door saying 'No Stiletto heeled shoes'!0
This discussion has been closed.
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply

Categories
- All Categories
- 350.3K Banking & Borrowing
- 252.8K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 453.2K Spending & Discounts
- 243.2K Work, Benefits & Business
- 597.7K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 176.6K Life & Family
- 256.3K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.6K Read-Only Boards