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House is freezing, no idea how to warm it up!
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As has been said before your heating is being controlled by your how water so presumably the boiler will not switch off when the thermostat tells it to. Your photo did not work as the link wants me to log in to Google with your password!!0
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Corrosion in the heating system
• The central heating system has not been inhibited, or is insufficiently inhibited,
allowing the continuous production of hydrogen gas, which is subsequently being
pumped around the system and is collecting in the radiator. (Hydrogen is a byproduct
of electrolytic corrosion and is often mistaken for air. Due care must be
taken as hydrogen is highly combustible.)
http://www.eskimodesign.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Technical-help-air-or-gas-in-radiators1.pdf
How about using a cleanser or descaler in the central heating followed by an inhibitor?
Today would be a good windy day to test for draughts and apply some sealant to the window leaks0 -
Look around the hot water tank in the 'airing cupboard' to see if there is a large bleed valve there too. I have to get air out of this point, as well as my radiators.
Does the boiler have a dial you can turn to set the temperature it will heat to? Sometimes this is hidden behind a panel which you have to unscrew. You don't need to be a qualified engineer to unscrew this, as long as you're not exposing the guts of the boiler! If this dial is set too low, then your radiators will not get decent hot water flowing inside them, and wont heat the house. If you can hurt your hand on your radiators, then this dial is probably set correctly.
The dial on the hot water tank ought to set the temperature of the hot water to sink/shower/bath but it might be worth a try, tweaking that upwards.0 -
if you have to have hot water on to run central heating I would imagine that when the system was fitted they never ran a cable from your hot water off connection on the timer to the 3 way vavle. Without that cable you will never get central heating on without the hot water being on.0
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If all else is wired correctly it shouldn't make much difference. The hot water will need to be on to run central heating and if the hot water tank is up to temperature the 3 way vavle will move to heating only0
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Actually we never get above 20 and usually between 18-20. Old property full of draughts etc. Seems fine.
I've just been through an extended period where the CH broke down the temp was at 11-12 for 2 weeks, that was painful. However, I would look at your CH pump and consider changing it if it's old as mine was changed and now heat gets around much more quickly and it's a revelation.0 -
Is there enough water in the system to actually heat all of the radiators?
If it is a sealed system is it up to pressure?
If not sealed is there water in the header tank for the CH? (Not the HW header tank) they may be separate.“Time is intended to be spent, not saved” - Alfred Wainwright0 -
I carry out thermal imaging surveys and help people with exactly your kind of issues. Using thermal imaging I can look at the fabric of the building and identify areas of heat loss and advise you on solutions to your problems. I would be happy to talk to you about this and maybe carry out a survey for you.0
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