Raising wall socket

50Twuncle

I am in need of some advice
We have a wall plug socket that needs raising about two feet to allow access above a (to be) fitted cupboard unit
The socket is not flush - it is surface mounted - so we would like it to be flush
The lead will (obviously) need extending - but what is the accepted method of joining a new (2 foot long) length of cable ?
Soldered and heat shrinked appears to be the way to go
But is this acceptable behind (wet) plaster ?

TheCyclingProgrammer

My understanding is that if the joint is going to be inaccessible (because its being plastered over, or is having a cupboard unit fitted in front of it) then ideally pull new cable of the appropriate length, otherwise I believe it needs to be a crimped joint.

I think you can get some "maintenance free" connectors (e.g. wagos inside a proper connector box) though I'm not sure these are suitable for being plastered over - possibly fine inside the backbox with a blanking plate over though if it doesn't get in the way of the kitchen unit.

Do you not have an electrician working on your new kitchen that could advise?

Head_The_Ball

50Twuncle wrote: »

I am in need of some advice
We have a wall plug socket that needs raising about two feet to allow access above a (to be) fitted cupboard unit
The socket is not flush - it is surface mounted - so we would like it to be flush
The lead will (obviously) need extending - but what is the accepted method of joining a new (2 foot long) length of cable ?
Soldered and heat shrinked appears to be the way to go
But is this acceptable behind (wet) plaster ?

Not necessarily.

The supply cable may run vertically down to the existing socket in which case it would need shortening and not lengthening.

Or it may run from another direction with enough slack to allow you to fit the new socket in a convenient location above and to the side of the existing socket.

Isolates the mains, remove the socket and see how the cables run.

Does the new socket have to be directly above the existing socket or could it go to one side or the other?

Another option is to fit a flush socket to replace the existing surface mounted socket and run a spur to a new flush socket above.

That would mean you don't have to join cables and also leaves a socket in place for future use should you ever move the cupboard.

Be aware that there are regulations governing location of sockets covering the height above the floor and the distance from corners etc. There are also regulations about how cables run. For example vertical and horizontal are usually OK but diagonally is probably against the regulations. Check those regulations.

Are you using a qualified electrician or doing the work yourself?

Hasbeen

As per Head The Ball above, flush and keep existing and run spur to where required.

Ensure existing is not already a spur, has only one cable not two cables which would allow new connection.

TheCyclingProgrammer

Surely whether OP decides to run a spur (if possible) from original location or extends cables to maintain the ring at the new socket makes no difference to their underlying problem - the cables need to be connected in such a way that is appropriate for an inaccessible connection.

IMO, if they just left the existing socket and ran a spur, or removed the socket and ran a spur from a JB behind a blanking plate, it would still need to be a maintenance-free connection because the joint would not be "accessible" by virtue of it being behind fixed kitchen units.

Head_The_Ball

TheCyclingProgrammer wrote: »

Surely whether OP decides to run a spur (if possible) from original location or extends cables to maintain the ring at the new socket makes no difference to their underlying problem - the cables need to be connected in such a way that is appropriate for an inaccessible connection.

IMO, if they just left the existing socket and ran a spur, or removed the socket and ran a spur from a JB behind a blanking plate, it would still need to be a maintenance-free connection because the joint would not be "accessible" by virtue of it being behind fixed kitchen units.

Running a spur as above does not require cables to be 'joined'.

The cables will all terminate inside the existing socket. They are 'joined' only in the sense that they are all inside the same connector in the socket.

If the existing socket is part of a ring circuit (ring main) then it will have two twin and earth cables feeding it. The ends of those cables will be stripped exposing the ends. The two live cable ends will be connected to the live socket connector, the two neutrals to the neutral socket and the two earths to the earth connection.

That means that electricity can flow both ways around the ring circuit and permits a safe current at that socket of up to 20 amps rather than being limited to 13 amps.

(If there is only one twin and earth cable then that socket is not part of a ring circuit. It is either a spur or possibly part of a radial mains in which case the OP should not run another spur from it.)

To add a spur requires connecting a third twin and earth to the connectors in the existing socket. It may be a tight squeeze but there should be enough room in each connector for three cable ends.

PS: The situation may be complicated by fitting a fixed cupboard over the existing socket. I don't know how that is covered in the regulations.

Perhaps the OP will need to cut a rectangular hole in the back of the cupboard to allow access to the existing socket. Perhaps that isn't necessary.

The OP needs to check all that out with a suitably qualified and reliable source. Don't rely on my comments or suggestions alone.

Head_The_Ball

TheCyclingProgrammer wrote: »

...IMO, if they just left the existing socket and ran a spur, or removed the socket and ran a spur from a JB behind a blanking plate, it would still need to be a maintenance-free connection because the joint would not be "accessible" by virtue of it being behind fixed kitchen units.

You might be correct.

I don't know if a socket qualifies as a 'maintenance free' connection.

I don't see why not but again I urge the OP to check that out with a suitable qualified person or source.

It probably makes little difference to the cost to replace the socket with something maintenance free if that is required to meet the regulations.

Hasbeen

Measure, Cupboard installed. Stanley knife to cut out rectangle gives socket low down on wall to supply washer, tumble dryer or any thing else Op does not want connected above worktop.

TheCyclingProgrammer

Head_The_Ball wrote: »

Running a spur as above does not require cables to be 'joined'.

The cables will all terminate inside the existing socket. They are 'joined' only in the sense that they are all inside the same connector in the socket.

Snipped out the rest, I understand how a ring and spur works.

Obviously the cables need to be joined to form a spur - how else would you make an electrical circuit? Whether that's a crimped connection, or in a junction box or using choc blocks inside a backbox with a blanking plate or in the back of a socket accessory, these are all types of joint.

My point was that if a cupboard is being installed in front of the socket and cannot be easily moved then this would not, IMO, but considered an "accessible" connection in the same way that a JB below floorboards would not normally be considered accessible if its covered by laminate or some other floor covering that isn't easily moveable.

TheCyclingProgrammer

Hasbeen wrote: »

Measure, Cupboard installed. Stanley knife to cut out rectangle gives socket low down on wall to supply washer, tumble dryer or any thing else Op does not want connected above worktop.

I agree, this would be a good solution depending on what is in the cupboard, as the connection would remain accessible and as you say no need to remove the socket, just run a spur (assuming the socket is on the ring). I'm surprised the kitchen fitter didn't suggest this (not that they should be doing the electrical work but it seems obvious really).

TheCyclingProgrammer

Head_The_Ball wrote: »

I don't know if a socket qualifies as a 'maintenance free' connection.

Anything that relies on screws to make a connection is not maintenance free.