Boiler temp

lstar337

DavidP24 wrote: »

On heating you set the boiler to a temperature but then you have dial on radiator, I wonder if anyone like Which? has done any testing on efficiency of these settings at different settings measuring the amount of gas used?

The house takes what it takes (heat wise), the only efficiency savings you can make are by having the boiler temp set lower for a longer period so you can take advantage of condensing mode.

DavidP24 wrote: »

I can't remove the thing under the bath because it is part of the pipework and I am not a plumber, I will attempt a fix on almost anything and be successful but other than cistern I do not go near water.

Then get a plumber in. I don't think anybody here was suggesting that you must do it yourself.

DavidP24 wrote: »

My approach was to find out what "normal" boiler setting is

Hopefully you have figured out that there is no 'one size fits all' solution. It is up to the homeowner.

DavidP24 wrote: »

The bath water is tepid and by time has run half a bath it is cold.

Then you need to get rid of the safety device. Can't imagine a plumber would charge much for the simple removal and replacement with a bit of pipe.

southcoastrgi

If you set the temp on the boiler to 46 (which is the max your tmv under the bath will go to) then you will find the basin & kitchen sink might not be hot enough, the bath temp is limited to prevent scalding (you aren't going to leave your hands in the basin or sink if the water is too hot) I really think you are over thinking this I don't wanna heat water I'm not using, what do you think happens when you turn the tap off ? All the water you have heated from the boiler to the tap will sit in the pipe & get cold

Norman_Castle

DavidP24 wrote: »

The bath water is tepid and by time has run half a bath it is cold.

If you turn the boiler water temperature to maximum do you get a hot bath?

southcoastrgi

You don't adjust any of those valves, the red valve is the flow for the heating, the yellow one is gas, the next blue one is cold in, the right hand one is return from the heating back to the boiler, the two black ones are to repressurise the system if the pressure on that gauge drops below 1 bar,

It looks to me that the right hand valve is turned off ? Does your heating work ?

Also you don't have a very good make/model of boiler so that's not helping either

Norman_Castle

DavidP24 wrote: »

Sadly NO, it is always tepid and cold by the time it is run.

However, it DOES get hot if I put the heating on, which is strange as it is a combi boiler.

A friends boiler recently developed a problem where it is only supplying warm water rather than hot. The water temperature is on maximum but even the hot water pipe directly below the boiler doesn't get very hot. The system has been fine for five years and nothing has been changed. It looks like a boiler problem. She mentioned the hot water was hotter when the heating is on.
You may have a boiler problem.

casper_g

It will make next to no difference to the energy cost whether you heat water to the final temperature you want for a bath or heat it to a higher temperature then add cold water to cool it.

To illustrate, consider two approaches. In each case your end goal is to have 100 litres of water at 46°C. Assume the cold water is coming into the house at 10°C (say).

1. Heat 100 litres of water from 10°C to 46°C. 1 litre of water is about 1 kg in mass, and the specific heat capacity of water is 4.2 kJ/kg/°C so you will need 100*(46-10)*4.2=15120kJ energy = 4.2 kWh.
2. Heat 72 litres of water from 10°C to 60°C, then mix it with 28 litres of your 10°C cold water to give 100 litres of water at 46°C. You will need 72*(60-10)*4.2=15120kJ energy = 4.2 kWh.

You can try other variations, and you'll get the same number every time.