Does Our 1950s Bungalow Need Windows Constantly Open?

gohan2091

We recently moved in to a 1950s bungalow. We are having conflicting information regarding air flow and condensation in the home. All windows are double glazed and most have trickle vents within them. Both bedrooms and the living room have air vents (two rooms have 9x9 inch vents, the other is smaller)

Our issue is to do with the cold internal temperture and condensation build up on the glass. Is it necessary to have at least one window in each room partially open 24/7? Or would it be as effective to have some windows partially open a few hours each day and then close them at night? I am asking because it is freezing in the house at the moment and we are hestitate to keep the heating on for long durations when we are getting constant cold air from the windows and vents.

It is worth mentioning that we currently have no carpets installed and we understand the place will be warmer once this has been fitted.

ChaunceyGardiner

Keep all windows and vents closed whenever it is cold. Extract moist air using bathroom/kitchen extractor fans and consider using a dehumidifier.

Kim_kim

ChaunceyGardiner wrote: »

Keep all windows and vents closed whenever it is cold. Extract moist air using bathroom/kitchen extractor fans and consider using a dehumidifier.

I have ripped the covers off trickle vent in my house, to improve the flow. I thought trickle vents should always remain open, houses need some fresh air.

Richie-from-the-Boro

The very worst starting point is not to have whole house heating. The very best starting point is to have the heating full belt. The practical middle ground is to invest some short term money into overheating for a week and see where you get to with condensation, then look at insulation long term. Outdoor air coming in the vents contains a lot less moisture than indoor air, most of which is cooking / bathroom / breathing / indoor clothes drying. I've always considered 10 minutes of open window more effective for condensation than 24 hours of vents.

In reality vents tend to be drier air forced in by wind direction, in the winter of course its damn cold air. You will lose 40% of expensive heat from one open fireplace for example. You will avoid most new moisture by opening a window when cooking or showering, better still a cheap forced air extractor from Screwfix. Cold surface glass, particularly big picture windows radiate cold air, modern loft spaces allow open atmosphere on two or more sides older propties often have badly insulated areas even in 2016. Best of luck !

badmemory

I don't know if this will help but I can reduce bathroom moisture quicker with an open window/closed door for 10 minutes than I can with an extractor fan for 2 hours and the temp doesn't drop as much either.

zaax

Get a de humifier, and see how much it is taking out after a month. Is the ground outside the house 2 bricks below the damp proof course?

gohan2091

Thanks for all the replies, we are considering a dehumidifier but what one would we need? How large? 12L put in the hallway can do the whole 2 bedroom bungalow? it's not a very large property.
We like the look of this but it's expensive and we don't know if it's worth it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Home-Garden-Store/Treats-Portable-Dehumidifier-12Litre-Humidity-Sensor-Settings/B01E5TC17Q/ref=sr_1_16?s=kitchen-appliances&ie=UTF8&qid=1483477872&sr=1-16&keywords=dehumidifier

zaax wrote: »

Get a de humifier, and see how much it is taking out after a month. Is the ground outside the house 2 bricks below the damp proof course?

Yes it is. We have moisure and mold growth near the front door above the skirting and we have moisure drips suddenly appearing at the top right corner of one of the bedrooms. This is with good ventilation, windows open most of the day and on the latch at night, also with open air vents.

globalds

sounds like cold spots

gohan2091

zaax wrote: »

Get a de humifier, and see how much it is taking out after a month. Is the ground outside the house 2 bricks below the damp proof course?

globalds wrote: »

sounds like cold spots

How would we sort this out if that's the case?

bigfreddiel

There is something seriously wrong with your bungalow if you are getting condensation and need to open windows.

I've lived in about ten different properties flats, houses, bungalows, thatched, underfloor heating, no heating, radiators, storage heaters.

Ever had any problems eith condensation or damp.

Trickle vents do work. We leave ours open all year round in the rooms we don't use and as necessary in the rooms we do use most often.

Get yourself a surveyor or heating engineer to check your bungalow before it gets out of hand.

Cheers fj

Richie-from-the-Boro

Dehumidifiers are an expensive waste of time, water and moisture is either ingress up, down or sideways in, all kind of logical. If you are not creating the kind of moisture then your roof down or drains up, masonry in is the culprit for structural damp in the building rather than widows and vents, particularly in an older building. Although I would have thought a 50's build would not be solid walls and would have [DPCs] fitted at the time of construction. I've never had the problem since the war. Best of luck !