Advice on Damp Proofing (Tanking?)

kneedeepinthehoopla

Hi Everyone,

Myself and my wife have just fitted our own DIY damp proof course using Dryzone Dryrods after viewing many good reviews of them across the internet. To do this we removed all the plaster back to the brickwork and followed all the instructions to the letter so in our eyes the job is done!

We are now in the process of getting quotations from plasterers on how much it would be to plaster and skim the walls with specialist cement based mixtures.
One plasterer I have had in already has said this is no problem once the brick has dried out.

Another plasterer has told me that what I have done is a waste of time and that we shouldn't have used the Dryrods (or any DPC). He would like to tank the walls using tanking slurry as according to him this is the only way forward.

I would just like to ask if anybody else has any experience in this because I don't feel this is accurate as my own research has never resulted in anything regarding tanking slurry (I don't claim to be an expert but I've spent months researching all methods).

The house is a standard two storey terrace.

Thanks in advance!

cherydee

We've just had our dining room tanked & replastered and now waiting the 6 months for it to dry out. I know they use Kingfisher and I could of got the guarantee for £200 but it would of only covered the outside wall, not the dividing wall with my neighbour or the wall dividing our living room as that was not tanked on the other side, only injected after removing skirting boards. Don't know if I can tell you much really.

FreeBear

kneedeepinthehoopla wrote: »

The house is a standard two storey terrace.

The age of the property ?
Solid brick or cavity walls ?

kneedeepinthehoopla

Property was built around 1904 I believe and it has solid brick walls

phil24_7

I tanked my cellar myself using KA tanking slurry. That and raising the floor level by between 2 and 4cm (floor was massively out of true and was causing most of my issues) left my cellar dry...apart from humidity!

It was easy enough to apply so long as it was mixed and applied reasonably quickly. It did give the plasterers a few problems as it stopped the render and then the plaster from drying out like they were used to.

FreeBear

Kneedeepinthehoopla wrote: »

Property was built around 1904 I believe and it has solid brick walls

In that case, please don't slap waterproof cement on the walls (inside or out) - Find someone that can do lime plastering. This will allow the walls to "breath" and will go a long way in preventing mold from forming.

If you have already taken the plaster off the walls, it wouldn't hurt to fix some woodwool boards to the walls and plaster over them. Woodwool will provide some insulation and also an excellent base for a lime plaster. If you are a keen DIYer, lime plastering isn't too difficult. Yes, it is a bit more expensive than Thistle Multifinish, but it doesn't go off like gypsum. Mix a bucket of lime putty & sand, and you can store it for years as long as it is kept damp and free from frost.

If it had been a 1960s build or later with cavity walls, I would have suggested dot'n'dab plasterboard & skim. But older properties need sympathetic treatment and the appropriate materials.

teneighty

You generally only need tanking if the external ground level is higher than the DPC level causing direct damp penetration through the wall.

If that is the case then yes you need tanking, although I prefer the cavity drain membrane. If not the plasterer is talking nonsense, just stick with the usual render mix with salts inhibitor admixture or one of the specialist plasters.

kneedeepinthehoopla

Hi Everyone,

Thanks you for all your replies - They are all incredibly useful and confirm my thoughts which is always good

I do think its a case of tanking for tanking sake as he hasn't event seen my walls yet and says that is the only method so that already gave me alarm bells!

FreeBear

kneedeepinthehoopla wrote: »

I do think its a case of tanking for tanking sake as he hasn't event seen my walls yet and says that is the only method so that already gave me alarm bells!

There are a number of ways to deal with damp walls - If he says tanking is the only way, you are right to be sceptical.

If you want an alternative opinion, have a chat with the guys over at Mike Wye - They probably know more about controlling damp in older buildings than the builders/plasterers you have consulted to date. Mike Wye can also advise on insulating the walls if you want to go down that route. However, I would be cautious about hemp plaster - The couple that I know who have used it are not enthusiastic about the insulating properties of hemp.

JustAnotherSaver

bildersfriend wrote: »

No one should waste a penny on damp proofing its all one big con!

Damn proofing is a big con or rising damp is a big con?

We'd had people try & tackle our walls in the living room that had been affected by damp. It didn't work & mould began to grow on their efforts.

12 months ago we had the walls tanked with Sovereign's K11 system. Ok it's only been 12 months but so far so good. Hopefully it remains that way.

grahambeale

Out of interest, did the dryrods work? I have just installed them on my home today - just read it can take 6-12 months for the walls to dry out.