The sewing thread

redlady_1

Has anyone altered sleeves on a dress shirt before? It seems relatively straight forward however, are there any pitfalls of which I should be aware please?

[Deleted User]

Are the sleeves too long/too wide/too narrow. We need more information. It won`t be easy if you have to unpick at the armscye. If they are too long then you could unpick the cuffs and go from there. None of it will be easy

redlady_1

Too long. Measure, take off cuff, reattach cuff with pleats?

I've never done alterations but do sew

PollyWollyDoodle

Depends how much you need to shorten - there's a 'cheat' which also works with jeans hems, not sure if I can explain it but here goes.

Turn up the cuff from the outside, so that you're putting right sides together. Turn it up enough it so that the sleeve (rather than the cuff) is showing. Pin it at half the distance you want to shorten - so the cuff right side is facing the sleeve right side, and you've got a horizontal fold in the sleeve fabric. Now stitch as close as you possibly can to the cuff seam - so you're effectively taking a tuck in the sleeve right next to the cuff.

Cut off the fold once you've checked it's the right length, and you have reattached the cuff further up the sleeve without having to undo it - if you do this with jeans it keeps the original topstitching. It only works with fairly straight sleeves/trouser legs and only if the adjustment is not too big.

The other way to do it would be as you describe,unpick it, shorten the sleeve and possibly narrow it slightly and reattach. I'd have to really love the shirt to do that!

redlady_1

Hubby is a little bloke and pays to have every shirt altered. I looked at it and thought, Christ, Im sure I can do that. I think the unpicking is the way I will go as this particular shirt needs to lose about 2 inches so will take it just behind the second button and put an extra pleat in.

Im certainly going to investigate your option though PWD so thanks. I need to shorten his trousers too as despite saying they were a 30 leg they are in fact a 32!

PollyWollyDoodle

For 2" then I agree, it'll probably need unpicking. Is he going to pay you what he's paid to have the others altered?

[Deleted User]

The bemberg slips, just sewn up at the selvedge, I just need to undo a few inches at the bottom, otherwise they are very good

[Deleted User]

I am busy doing house chores this morning but have had two good rest days, its me, I do sometimes reach a plateau when I just have to have 2 days of doing very little. It re-energises me and sets my body clock back to a normal sleeping pattern

I have had 3 lutterloh patterns sitting in large envelopes in my living room. Patterns that I made via the lutterloh system over 10 years ago and there is no chance that they will fit me now, I remember being so pleased with that system then, made several tops, all fitted me well. Those patterns went out this morning and now I am contemplating maybe re-learning the sytem again. It involves moving a pinned tape measure around a pattern pinned on a board. I will have to buy a cork board. I`ll have to think about it but the hard work has been done ie taking all the measurements. I would like a pattern for a top with a peplum, I did have a vogue pattern but the top is too big on the lowest number, so that pattern went out

Anyone interested in stylearc patterns, they have a 25% checkout reduction on amazon at the moment and if you look at postal options, there is also facility to get £1 off amazon video, kindle etc. I only realised that lately, so it is best to go through checkout one item at a time

Today I am wearing pink linen esme top and a moss green A line pull on in linen, not the thick linen. I am putting g/m squared down if that is available for any fabric I buy, it gives a good measure/idea of the hanging weight of the fabric. All the german fabrics have that and some uk sellers. I feel comfortable and yes it does take three wears to get comfortable wearing your own home-sews outside
http://www.distinctivesewing.com/blog/understanding-fabric-weight/

Some fabrics are washed and dry now and I have now got the perfect one for cake patterns, tiramisu, I am ready to make a dress pattern that I cannot make in a hurry and with a fabric that stretches somewhat and will be easy to handle. Will be cutting the selvedges off berore laying the pattern out, won`t be today
Most fabrics change a bit after washing, you can see the foam in the washing machine as it washes the added finish chemicals off
https://www.croftmill.co.uk/products/jersey-fabric/cotton-jersey-fabric/perfect-pink-floral-4way-stretch-cotton-jersey-product.html

[Deleted User]

I did a lutterloh design, front only, using a small piece of cork masked with tape to my table. It was very easy and looked good as a pattern. I held it up in front of me and indeed it would have fitted but needed that FBA, so I cannot be bothered with it and have packed it away. It is grand for a B size but I have enough patterns to be altered, to last me a lifetime. Interesting project though as the one I did previously fitted me perfectly, sigh, got to come to terms with that mature sinking feeling

I turned to petite plus then as I want to know if I can, nowadays still make a garment straight out of the pattern. I cut out the straight skirt with a false wrap over at the front. 7" shorter. She has a different way of writing instructions, so I need to read carefully before I sew. Another pattern designer, who has good patterns but does not make the most of the designs on the pattern front. I could do with trying a straight skirt, for that sleek look

PollyWollyDoodle

I remember looking up lutterloh after you first posted about it some time ago, it looked really interesting but I don't think I have the skills for that sort of thing! Kittie, your links are fabulous, I'm bookmarking the one about fabric weight.

I found time to finish my shell top muslin yesterday, probably not perfect but an improvement on the first cut. Today I need to transfer the adjustments I've made to the pattern (moved the shoulder, lowered the bust darts and took some length out of the back). I'd already done an FBA before cutting out the muslin. Then I'm going to cut it out in some cotton lawn that I bought in J Lewis sale, and hope for a good fit first time. .

This has been a lot of faff, I can't see myself doing this every time I make up a new pattern. However I'm hoping that I'll be able to use the 'master' pattern e.g. by putting it underneath a new pattern to see where I'll need the FBA. It has taught me a heck of a lot about measuring and garment shaping, and how tweaking one bit can have an effect much further down the garment, so it's been worth while.