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Holy exhaust
JustAnotherSaver
Posts: 6,709 Forumite
in Motoring
Wondering if i could just get some sort of exhaust paste on there or whether it needs welding? If paste then i have some fire cement. Sounds a bit cowboy to me but since it's high temp cement - would this be ok (assuming paste is an ok fix)?

I was (wrongly i guess) under the impression stainless steel system's don't rust. That was part of the reason why i bought it. I would've bought it anyway to be honest but it was just another reason.
The system is a Cybox one (as far as i'm aware they're rebranded Peco?).
The rust spot is near the clamp around where the mid silencer is.
The exhaust (the stainless side of it) is from the cat back.
Need to get it booked in for timing belt & water pump changed which i was looking at having done December so if it needs welding then i think i'll see about holding out until then.

I was (wrongly i guess) under the impression stainless steel system's don't rust. That was part of the reason why i bought it. I would've bought it anyway to be honest but it was just another reason.
The system is a Cybox one (as far as i'm aware they're rebranded Peco?).
The rust spot is near the clamp around where the mid silencer is.
The exhaust (the stainless side of it) is from the cat back.
Need to get it booked in for timing belt & water pump changed which i was looking at having done December so if it needs welding then i think i'll see about holding out until then.
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Comments
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Quiksteel? Or similar.0
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That needs replacing - or welding. Bodgegoop won't last five minutes there - and, in the unlikely event it does, it won't actually address the real problem, just the symptom. The metal around the hole is rotting, and will be much thinner.
If it is stainless, it's very poor quality stainless - as most cheap "stainless" exhausts tend to be. Looking at the fact it's gone right next to the fitting split in the sleeve joint, I suspect the joint's been blowing for a while which has eroded the metal more quickly.0 -
Looks like its going to be rusty all around that join, hard to weld and it may not be long before it fails.
Sleeved at the very least, or a short joiner section.Censorship Reigns Supreme in Troll City...0 -
If you think you can split the joint, cutting it and replacing with a reducing pipe would do. Exhaust paste might do as a temporary job to get you through winter / pass an MOT0
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Now you mention it, i think i remember there being a minute hole there some time ago. Well, not so much a hole, just that the joint wasn't so great - just like the hangers (whatever they're called) were SUPPOSED to line up perfectly but they needed manipulating.Looking at the fact it's gone right next to the fitting split in the sleeve joint, I suspect the joint's been blowing for a while which has eroded the metal more quickly.
Looks like it developed over time (had it fitted in 2009).
May be an excuse for a straight through pipe then. Only thing is after research when i bought it i'm sure i remember a straight through having the feedback as being a bit loud for my liking, which is why i paid extra for the mid silencer.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/cybox-exhausts <--- these are the guys i bought from.0 -
Measure the existing sizes, then order a sleeve such as this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Any-Size-Exhaust-Repair-Tube-Swaged-and-Cropped-T304-Stainless-Steel-/121383663116?var=420324114772&hash=item1c4307b60c:m:mSgcbcdA0QGynnDXr0V26rg0 -
Gun gum is what I would use, with an old baked bean tin (other tins are available) and a couple of jubilee clips.0
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Is it the Popemobile?
Or perhaps the Batmobile?0 -
Odd stainless steel that the amount of rust.0
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I was told elsewhere that if a non stainless metal (maybe the bracket) is in contact with the stainless then it can rust anyway.
Not sure if this is an accurate statement or not.0
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