Paid for car repair but broke down again 1 mile later

jimmylad007

So how about seeing it as the garage received the instruction (regardless of who it was from) to replace a faulty crankshaft sensor. They didn't do that. They in fact replaced a functioning crankshaft sensor. Do I have the right to get the old sensor inspected?

forgotmyname

Inspect the old sensor? Its probably in the skip under a ton of other parts, so if not broken then it probably is now.

A visual inspection wont tell you much unless its physically damaged. most look the same as the new one your fitting.

If they replaced a functioning one why did it start right after the change?

thescouselander

Perhaps it's the wiring rather than the sensor. You could locate the wire and give it a wiggle then see if it starts up again.

Geodark

Was it a genuine GM sensor they used? I have heard in the past about non GM ones not working correctly.

jimmylad007

It appears that the engine starts when cold but cuts out after warming up. Hopefully that might help them track it down.

shaun_from_Africa

jimmylad007 wrote: »

It appears that the engine starts when cold but cuts out after warming up. Hopefully that might help them track it down.

That is quite often the result of a bad connection (usually a dodgy solder joint) that is fine when cold but fails when the resistance goes up due to the heating.

jimmylad007

I know it's a while on but I just wanted to add the outcome. I spoke to Green Flag who investigated and admitted that their man was wrong in giving the garage instructions without my consent. He also failed to advised me about getting a proper diagnosis. Therefore they were very good and refunded what I paid for the repair.

The fault with the car turned out to be a bad joint in the ECU.

dannyrst

jimmylad007 wrote: »

I know it's a while on but I just wanted to add the outcome. I spoke to Green Flag who investigated and admitted that their man was wrong in giving the garage instructions without my consent. He also failed to advised me about getting a proper diagnosis. Therefore they were very good and refunded what I paid for the repair.

The fault with the car turned out to be a bad joint in the ECU.

Good on you. Those people who said you should have spoken to the garage are wrong. The garage should have checked with you before carrying out any work. Just because you have breakdown cover doesn't give the guy authority to tell someone to work on your car.

Marktheshark

jimmylad007 wrote: »

I

The fault with the car turned out to be a bad joint in the ECU.

Get rid quick.
Dry solder syndrome, unless they have replaced the full ECU, this could get very expensive shortly.

Strider590

Marktheshark wrote: »

Get rid quick.
Dry solder syndrome, unless they have replaced the full ECU, this could get very expensive shortly.

Less dry solder, more fractured solder joint due to using lead free solder in one of the harshest environments you can exposed electronic devices to...... A car (extremes of heat, extremes of cold, humidity, electrical noise, etc).

Things like ABS and EPAS controllers are "safety critical" and allowed to use SN/PB solder, but not the engine ECU (unless it has direct overriding control of safety critical items).

There's a well respected aerospace electronics engineer (who's name escapes me) that once said that the day they start putting RoHS compliant parts in aircraft is the last time he gets on a plane.