MDF or MFC or something else ?

jack_ofall_trade

Hi All,

I have taken a big project based on my skills set. I am building a so called "fitted wardrobe". Idea is to build 2 free standing wardrobes (W:100cm, H:182.6cm and 60cm deep) and a shelving panel (W:64.4cm, H:182.6cm and D:60cm). Stand them side by side to make it look like a fitted wardrobe. I have done all the design n all. If all works fine then we plan to put sliding doors but that's for future.

Point I am getting stuck at is:

1) Which material to use to build the carcass. There are so many of them Particleboard, Hardboard, Conti Board, MDF, MFC, Plywood etc etc. On top of that my better half wants glossy white interior.
2) What thickness of board I should use 15mm 18mm or more.

Please advise.

Kind Regards

beaker141

I've done similar a few times - I used 18mm MDF and then painted it.

I'm now an Ikea PAX wardrobe convert - have a price up of their frames in a white finish befor you commit to DIY!

TheCyclingProgrammer

I built a couple of alcove cabinets myself. I used green MDF, gives a good painted finish however I only had a few exposed edges to deal with (cut MDF edges need some serious sanding/priming to get a nice smooth finish).

I would forget about particleboard, hardboard and contiboard.

18mm thickness would be fine. The thing about MDF though is that it is heavy. You'll probably want something thicker for the shelving to avoid sag. I'd consider plywood if you plan on moving these around much, otherwise MDF for something fitted and not moving around should be fine. Depends how good your cabinet making skills are really.

I'd highly recommend investing in a pocket hole screw kit for assembling your cabinets, they make the job much easier and should give you a strong right-angle join (dry fit first then re-fit with a bit of PVA for extra strength).

Chrishazle

Having built the cupboards and drawers in my workshop from MDF (18mm) I would not now touch it with a barge pole. For a start, the dust from cutting it is a known carcinogen, so you must use a good dust mask. For second, even pre-drilling clearance holes for screws did not stop splitting, so I ended up squeezing glue into the splits and clamping!

I'd go for decent 18mm plywood then clad any exposed edges with a suitable moulding, either from the wood shop or made to measure on my router table.

I've built 2 runs of fitted wardrobes and sliding mirrored doors in this house, 1 being 10ft, the other 6ft. I bought really good aluminium internals from Spaceslide, the main uprights fit to the side and back walls. Then I bought Eku Combino sliding gear from Isaac Lord, fitted to the floor and ceiling on battens. The doors I made from 18mm furniture grade pine, cut to required width on the table saw then the planer/thicknesser to get everything square and equal, then used various cutteers on the router table to get the shape and recesses needed. Put 4mm mirror glass backed with 6mm ply into the made frames. Did all this 8-9 years ago, still working well and looks superb.

27cool

beaker141 wrote: »

I've done similar a few times - I used 18mm MDF and then painted it.

I'm now an Ikea PAX wardrobe convert - have a price up of their frames in a white finish befor you commit to DIY!

Ah!. PAX by IKEA. Brilliant bit of kit. I'm also a full convert.

jack_ofall_trade

beaker141 wrote: »

I've done similar a few times - I used 18mm MDF and then painted it.

I'm now an Ikea PAX wardrobe convert - have a price up of their frames in a white finish befor you commit to DIY!

Thank you for your reply. I am now considering Ikea PAX frames.

jack_ofall_trade

TheCyclingProgrammer wrote: »

I built a couple of alcove cabinets myself. I used green MDF, gives a good painted finish however I only had a few exposed edges to deal with (cut MDF edges need some serious sanding/priming to get a nice smooth finish).

I would forget about particleboard, hardboard and contiboard.

18mm thickness would be fine. The thing about MDF though is that it is heavy. You'll probably want something thicker for the shelving to avoid sag. I'd consider plywood if you plan on moving these around much, otherwise MDF for something fitted and not moving around should be fine. Depends how good your cabinet making skills are really.

I'd highly recommend investing in a pocket hole screw kit for assembling your cabinets, they make the job much easier and should give you a strong right-angle join (dry fit first then re-fit with a bit of PVA for extra strength).

Thank you for sharing your views. I'm not very skilled at these things. My plan was to make the frames and buy Ikea drawers. However now I'm planning to ditch the whole project and get Ikea frames and drawers. Job done no hassle no pain.

jack_ofall_trade

Chrishazle wrote: »

Having built the cupboards and drawers in my workshop from MDF (18mm) I would not now touch it with a barge pole. For a start, the dust from cutting it is a known carcinogen, so you must use a good dust mask. For second, even pre-drilling clearance holes for screws did not stop splitting, so I ended up squeezing glue into the splits and clamping!

I'd go for decent 18mm plywood then clad any exposed edges with a suitable moulding, either from the wood shop or made to measure on my router table.

I've built 2 runs of fitted wardrobes and sliding mirrored doors in this house, 1 being 10ft, the other 6ft. I bought really good aluminium internals from Spaceslide, the main uprights fit to the side and back walls. Then I bought Eku Combino sliding gear from Isaac Lord, fitted to the floor and ceiling on battens. The doors I made from 18mm furniture grade pine, cut to required width on the table saw then the planer/thicknesser to get everything square and equal, then used various cutteers on the router table to get the shape and recesses needed. Put 4mm mirror glass backed with 6mm ply into the made frames. Did all this 8-9 years ago, still working well and looks superb.

Thanks for sharing your views.

I was/am very reluctant due to these carcinogens (saw dust and formaldehyde emission, if not properly sealed) in MDF and other boards. Then I read, nowadays you can buy boards with low or formaldehyde free boards - but saw dust is still and issue. Also, formaldehyde free board are expensive. The cost does not justify building your own hoping to save money. Since I have a toddler at home I guess its best to avoid any carcinogen especially when wardrobe is being installed in the a room where you spend most time in. So now we are seriously considering Ikea PAX wardrobe frame and drawers. Ikea PAX wardrobe will still emit formaldehyde but risk is very low.

I will for sure research a bit more on your idea of sliding doors.

Thanks

jack_ofall_trade

27cool wrote: »

Ah!. PAX by IKEA. Brilliant bit of kit. I'm also a full convert.

Definitely considering it.

TheCyclingProgrammer

There's no need to be hysterical about MDF and it's carcinogenic effects, especially for a one off project. The risk is largely for those who work with the stuff day in day out. I'm fairly sure most European sourced MDF has to comply with standards for low formaldehyde content and the risk is quite low.

By all means wear a mask, work in a ventilated space and try and avoid breathing in the dust but you're not going to get cancer just from cutting up a few bits of MDF. You're more likely to breath in more pollutants walking down a busy road from traffic fumes.

PAX wardrobes are good, we have them, but it's also fun to make your own stuff. If never built anything from wood in my life but I spent ages researching the best way to make my cabinets, I even modelled them in Sketchup, created a cutting list and sent it to a local timber merchant and picked it up pre-cut.

Assembled and painted the lot myself, but had the doors made specially from an online MDF cutting shop.

I think they came out alright...