Blanked off electrical socket

C_Mababejive

Le_Kirk wrote: »

Not sure I understand the logic behind that statement. Are you saying the cables might not be big enough (gauge wise)?

Theoretically you could as when all said and done, its just a live/neutral pair ith a PD of 240vac and with plenty of capacity to power a simple ignition device.

The trouble is that it will be fused/rated at around 30A at the CU.

It would need adaptation and different protections.

The cooker is designed to be plugged into a ring main with a plug and not grafted onto a 30A cooker supply.

Risteard

Unfortunately everything you have stated apart from "get an Electrician in" is incorrect.

A pontential difference of 230V will exist between line and neutral conductors (both live conductors).

A ring final circuit is fused at 30A or protected by a 32A circuit breaker, so there is nothing inherently wrong with a 30A fuse protecting a socket circuit.

C_Mababejive wrote: »

Theoretically you could as when all said and done, its just a live/neutral pair ith a PD of 240vac and with plenty of capacity to power a simple ignition device.

The trouble is that it will be fused/rated at around 30A at the CU.

It would need adaptation and different protections.

The cooker is designed to be plugged into a ring main with a plug and not grafted onto a 30A cooker supply.

C_Mababejive

Risteard wrote: »

Unfortunately everything you have stated apart from "get an Electrician in" is incorrect.

A pontential difference of 230V will exist between line and neutral conductors (both live conductors).

A ring final circuit is fused at 30A or protected by a 32A circuit breaker, so there is nothing inherently wrong with a 30A fuse protecting a socket circuit.

Well in that case the OP can go ahead and connect his mothers gas cooker electrics to the 30Amp cooker circuit.


Our work here is done..

Ectophile

Martuk67 wrote: »

Ectophile thanks, there isn't an extractor fan and not sure if they would go to another socket. I remember she had new sockets put in when the kitchen was done but they were on the other side of the kitchen. She is in a top floor flat so no access to loft and concrete floor and sure there wasn't any major works chasing wise done at the time. When you say competent do you mean qualified in electrics ? Obviously I'm not but as such a small job hoping to be able to do it myself .

The law says pretty much nothing on what "competent" means. But if you end up electrocuting yourself or burning the building down, then you probably weren't competent. You could be competent if you've read a good DIY book.

Being qualified is a different thing - it tends to mean possessing a handful of City & Guilds certificates.

The extra wires must be going somewhere. Is it possible to turn off just the cooker supply at the consumer unit and see if anything stops working?

Le_Kirk

C_Mababejive wrote: »

The trouble is that it will be fused/rated at around 30A at the CU.

It would need adaptation and different protections.

The cooker is designed to be plugged into a ring main with a plug and not grafted onto a 30A cooker supply.

Ah, I see, the specific cooker that the OP posted about (which only requires power for the igniter) in which case I agree but then reinstate the socket properly (cooker switch and 13 socket) and just plug in the new gas cooker to the socket.

I thought you were writing about a large electric cooker.

CC_Popsicle

Is the blank socket in a safe position?

'About 20 years ago' is vague and could mean this blanked off socket is far too close to taps or directly above the hob line.My mothers kitchen has a double socket some 2-3 feet above where a free standing gas cooker sits. All things that scream out no in this day and age.