immersion heater wall switch

southcoastrgi

So if it was 216.2v then it makes my point even more important, 13.88 amps being protected by a 13 amp fuse, so apart from being a Richard I'm not sure what point you are trying to make ��

JohnB47

Risteard wrote: »

Actually it was. The supply frequently exceeds 240V and frequently dips below 230V. The single phase supply can legitimately vary between 216.2V and 253V.

I'm sure southcoastrgi can defend himself but surely there is nothing wrong about the statement "the household supply is normally between 230v-240v". It is a helpful reply about a matter of safety.

I normally have a cup of tea after my dinner and that's still true even if I frequently have coffee instead.

adamada

Ectophile wrote: »

Immersion heaters are often connected to 13A fused connection units (FCUs). Unfortunately, these frequently overheat, especially if they are inside the airing cupboard.

If the immersion heater is on its own circuit, with an appropriate fuse/breaker at the consumer unit, then there's really no need for the extra 13A fuse anyway.

A 20A double pole switch should work fine. A 45A one is a bit of an overkill.

thats good advice :beer:

maybe the op can find one with a neon indicator if they require it and its in view, if its in the cupboard it may not be required :beer:

adamada

southcoastrgi wrote: »

So if it was 216.2v then it makes my point even more important, 13.88 amps being protected by a 13 amp fuse, so apart from being a Richard I'm not sure what point you are trying to make ��

a 13a fuse well not blow till it reaches 2.5 x the rating, its primerilly there to protect the flex to the heater

the fuse/mcb at the fuse box will blow first and all will have a trip rate over its rated value to allow for spikes in the electric suppy that has been mentioned

Risteard

southcoastrgi wrote: »

So if it was 216.2v then it makes my point even more important, 13.88 amps being protected by a 13 amp fuse, so apart from being a Richard I'm not sure what point you are trying to make ��

Well we have seen quite a few times here that you aren't actually competent to give advice on electrical installations. Stick to being a gas man.

coffeehound

As I understand it, the 3 kW figure is true for a 240 V supply. If the supply is say 230 volts, then less current flows and the power output of the same element will be about 2.8 kW instead.

southcoastrgi

adamada wrote: »

a 13a fuse well not blow till it reaches 2.5 x the rating, its primerilly there to protect the flex to the heater

the fuse/mcb at the fuse box will blow first and all will have a trip rate over its rated value to allow for spikes in the electric suppy that has been mentioned

It may not if its not on its own dedicated circuit plus any fuse is there to protect wires & whatever it's connected to, hence a boiler is fused at 3 amps & that certainly isn't to protect the flex

southcoastrgi

So apart from some arguing about math, no one has actually disagreed with my post that a immersion shouldn't be connected to a fused spur which is what I said in the first place ��

Risteard

southcoastrgi wrote: »

a boiler is fused at 3 amps & that certainly isn't to protect the flex

A BS 1362 fuse is not there to protect any appliance.

adamada

southcoastrgi wrote: »

So apart from some arguing about math, no one has actually disagreed with my post that a immersion shouldn't be connected to a fused spur which is what I said in the first place ��

in some households the heater is wired off the ring main, in this instance a fused spur will be nessesary. if the heater is on its own curcuit, it can be on a fused spur or dp switch, its of no concequence,

so basically your wrong, it can be connected to a fused spur, no matter when you said it