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Bathroom / Tiling

Hi,

I'm not sure if I'm going to be continuing this project myself or getting someone in to do the rest but I'd very much like to be en-powered with the knowledge of how this should be done correctly since I have had people in to quote for the job previously and the answers don't match up with my research on the internet.

Design:
The house is 1950's brick build, the internal walls look to be breeze block, all of the walls are plastered. The bathroom is 2240mm x 1700mm (screenshot of the room attached).

The current bathroom is to be replaced with an up-to-date suite, with a shower over the bath.

The missus is looking at tiles that are 600mm x 300mm, possibly these ones (is the price reasonable?)

http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod46024/rectified-vanilla-gloss-tile.html

http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod46028/rectified-mocha-gloss-tile.html

Vanilla on all three sides of the bath room, filling the full wall behind the toilet and up to the door on the left hand side of the bath. Mocha will be used has a vertical boarder on the bath wall between Vanilla tiles. All of the tiles will be laid in a 'straight course'. The rest of the room will be painted.

Tiling on the wall:
The current tiles have been tiled onto plaster which is being pulled off when the current tiles are being removed, see attached pictures. Doing my research based upon the weight of the tiles I believe that plaster won't be strong enough and that I should opt for either:

1) Remove the plaster and go back down to brick / block and use cement board in the wet areas (Aquaboard / Hardiebacker or similar, any suggestions as to which brand?)

2) Remove the plaster and concrete render the walls? Which mix should be used?

Are any of these options preferred?

Do I still also need to have the wet areas tanked out? If so I’ve seen plenty of discussion around the BAL system, is that the ideal option or are there others?

What is the easiest method of removing the plaster from the breeze block walls? The browning seems to be stuck on pretty well.

Any comments to be had on the quality of the suites from "Better Bathrooms"?

Bathroom_Layout.jpg

Pic1.jpg

Pic2.jpg

Pic3.jpg

Thanks.

Comments

  • andyhop
    andyhop Posts: 1,996
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Forumite
    Don't bother with cement board

    Standard plasterboard Dot and dabbed then tank with homelux membrane . Easier to cut, install and work with without the hazards of silica dust which is a cancer causing dust

    Plasterboard will be more than sufficient for rectified porcelain

    Use a chipping gun for removing plaster then a scraper to get the final bits off. SBR prime before dot and dabbing
    Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure
  • rosie383
    rosie383 Posts: 4,981 Forumite
    No idea about other aspects of your posts, but if you are anywhere near Kettering try these people for tiles.
    Wallsandfloors.co.uk.
    We traveled up there and got much better quality tiles for kitchen and bathroom than we could afford from anywhere else and at about a third less than we were originally going to pay.
    Very helpful staff too.
    Father Ted: Now concentrate this time, Dougal. These
    (he points to some plastic cows on the table) are very small; those (pointing at some cows out of the window) are far away...
    :D:D:D
  • Gadge2011
    Gadge2011 Posts: 35
    Ninth Anniversary 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    Forumite
    Thanks for the replies.

    Am I being over cautious with planning to remove all of the plaster and board out due to the tile weight or is using something like "Bal Quickset render" to skim over the walls viable and if would I be able to use it directly on the brockwork to bring the wall out 2-3mm to meet the plaster thats already on?

    Thanks
  • southcoastrgi
    southcoastrgi Posts: 6,298
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Forumite
    You say about the weight but don't say what it is per m2 ?
    I'm only here while I wait for Corrie to start.

    You get no BS from me & if I think you are wrong I WILL tell you.
  • andyhop
    andyhop Posts: 1,996
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Combo Breaker
    Forumite
    10-12mm rectified porcelain will weigh around 25kg per sqm. Add 4 kg for grout and adhesive and your well over the safe 20kg limit for plaster

    Strip of the existing and make sure the dot and dabbing is perfect . Will make it a easy job for square edge rectified tiles
    Hi, we’ve had to remove your signature. If you’re not sure why please read the forum rules or email the forum team if you’re still unsure
  • dermonte
    dermonte Posts: 159 Forumite
    My builder is going back to brick with our bathroom and using plaster board upstairs. He did same with downstairs shower room. We used direct tile importars for our tiles and it was quality but cheap tiles.
  • Gadge2011
    Gadge2011 Posts: 35
    Ninth Anniversary 10 Posts Combo Breaker
    Forumite
    Thanks, I went and had a look around the tile importers in York but I think the missus's mind is set.

    The weight of the tiles (weighing on a small kitchen scale) is 3.1kg
    5.5 tiles per m2 (so lets say 6) = 18.6kg + 4kg for plaster so 22.6kg(ish).. It's interesting that noe one person I've had to quote nor the sales staff that shown us the tiles mentioned the plaster weight.. Glad I've done my own research.

    Thanks.
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